Dog Breeds

Amount Of Dog Food

Guru Creation — Sat, 25 Aug 2007 23:33:00 +0000

Determining The Amount Of Dog Food Needed For Your Dog

The pet dog has the same nutritional needs as any other dog. The only difference is the reduced number of calories it uses because of the type of life a dog leads as a household pet. The house dog living exclusively indoors is probably one of the least active animals in the world. More inactive, even, than its owner.

Most of a house dog's time is spent sleeping. Its greatest effort, in many instances, consists of a 10-foot walk from the back door three times a day for eliminations, and a 10-foot walk from the family room couch to its food bowl in the kitchen. As a consequence the house dog is the most overfed and suffers from the greatest overweight problems of all the house-pets.

The dog that spends most of its daylight activities outdoors, but comes in at night, has a higher energy need than the pet kept indoors constantly. Not only does it get more exercise, but it requires extra energy to maintain its body temperature during cooler weather outdoors. Even with such additional requirements it is not uncommon to find indoor/outdoor pets that are fed too much and are borderline overweights.

The dog that stays outdoors all of the time is the pet least likely to develop obesity. As an outdoor dog it enjoys the same, or more exercise as the indoors/outdoors dog. In addition, outdoor dogs have a considerably increased need for energy to maintain body heat.

This need for extra energy for body heat becomes especially high at night and in colder weather. In fact, there are occasional instances where outdoor dogs, when improperly fed, begin to appear just like the undernourished farm hounds of a past era of dog feeding.

Calculation: The quantity of food a house dog needs is determined by the same things that determine the amount of food any other dog eat, which is its optimum body weight and the caloric density of the food it eats. The amount is calculated in the same manner as for other dogs. Determine the number of calories a dog needs daily to maintain its optimum weight. Then divide that number by the number of calories in a pound of food you are feeding. The results will be the quantity of food you should feed, measured in pounds.

Wash Dog

Guru Creation — Fri, 24 Aug 2007 00:55:00 +0000

How To Properly Bathe Your Dog

The rules on how often you should bathe your dog are different from one dog to the next. Various breeds as well as various types of coats determine how often the dog should be given a bath. For example, the Poodle should be bathed every four or six weeks.

On the other hand, the Pointer can go three or four months between baths. Other breeds which have harsh long coats, such as the Pomeranian, Samoyed, and the Norwegian Elkhound require less frequent bathing because it tends to soften the coat. However, dogs that are kept in the house most of the time have to be bathed more frequently to keep them clean.

Bathing the dog is important in order to keep the coat and skin clean and healthy. The coat should always be brushed thoroughly before the bath. This will help to remove all dead hair and all mats from the coats of long-haired dogs.

The next step is to prepare the materials you are going to use before the bath. The following is a list of supplies you will need:

1. Shampoo (regular or special shampoos for conditioning, color, coat, etc.)
2. Bristle Brush
3. Sponge
4. Rubber Tub Mat
5. Two Thick Bath-size Towels
6. Chain and Choke (to secure dog)
7. Spray Hose
8. Cream Rinse (long-haired breeds with the exception of the Poodle and Terriers).

Always remember to secure your dog safely in the tub. A chain and choke is necessary for this, giving the dog about a foot and a half of slack. This will make sure that the dog cannot jump from the tub and injure himself. A rubber tub mat is also a good safety precaution.

Using a spray hose, wet the coat thoroughly with warm water. Next, apply the shampoo to the dog's coat with a sponge, paying special attention to the ears, rectum area, and pads of the feet. These three areas are usually neglected by most groomers when bathing the dog. A small bristle brush may be used to scrub the head, ears, pads of the feet, and other extremely dirty areas of the coat. When the coat is thoroughly soaped and scrubbed, rinse it with warm water.

When rinsing, place the thumb over the ear opening to keep water out of the ears. Also keep a hand over the eyes to prevent any soap from getting into them. Since every dog should have a double bath, repeat the soaping and rinsing process. On the last rinse be sure to get all of the soap out of the coat.

Gently squeeze the hair on the legs, tail, ears, and all parts of the dog's body with your hands to remove excess water. You must first towel dry before using a dryer.

Training Your Puppy

Guru Creation — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 21:40:00 +0000

What You Need To Know In Training Your Puppy

It is important for your puppy to feel he is a valuable individual. Try to have your training sessions in a relatively quiet place. Because he is so playful, he can be easily distracted by other people and activities. If he is constantly being bombarded by other sights and sounds, it will be difficult for him to get the message from you that you enjoy being with him.

Use words:The only way he will learn to associate the command with the action is if you use the word every time you guide him into doing what you want. A puppy can learn a very large vocabulary with such words as "Outdoors," "Bedtime," "Go for a walk," as well as the basic commands.

Reward your pup: To teach him anything, you must first have his attention and then you must reward him as soon as he has done what you ask. The reward can take three forms; a
tidbit, a pat, or your voice. Consider the use of tidbits a highly successful means of puppy training. By guiding his behavior with it, you can avoid pushing and pulling with your hands and all of the jerking and pulling on the leash.

A puppy learns much more quickly when he performs the activity himself rather than being pushed or pulled into doing it. Then, as he begins to understand what you mean by "Sit" or "Come" or whatever, you can use your hand or leash to perfect the performance, thereby keeping handling at a minimum. Timing is of the utmost importance when using tidbits in puppy training. Obviously, your puppy is not going to know what you mean by the different commands when you first begin to train him, and the only way he will learn that he is doing the right thing is when he receives the reward at the moment he does it.

An example in using tidbits is to teach the command “Sit.” If you have a puppy who prefers bouncing around and absolutely hates sitting, you may have to begin by rewarding a bending of the hind legs. If you were to wait until he sits all the way down with his bottom on the floor, you would never get the job done. After a few rewards for partial sitting, the puppy will suddenly sit all the way, at which time you will not only reward him but tell him how marvelous he is.

Another example of rewarding with tidbits is with the heeling exercise. This is the most difficult thing for most puppies to learn. Too often, it involves excessive jerking on the leash. The more a puppy is being pulled, the more he resists and pulls in the opposite direction. Their natural tendency is to run off and sniff around. Cheese tidbits is very effective in overcoming the problems of teaching a puppy to walk beside us. It works even better off-leash (but only for a minute at a time).

As you begin walking, the instant the puppy begins to look away from you, get his attention with your voice and give him a tidbit. This will keep him at your side for another few steps. Repeat this a few times during each session, reversing your direction and taking some turns. Then stop while you are both still performing well and give him lots of praise with your voice along with some pats.

Teaching your Pit Bull to sit and stay

Guru Creation — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 00:34:00 +0000

Teaching your Pit Bull to sit and stay

Now that your Pit Bull has learned to follow the command “come,” he is ready for his next trick. Another very useful behavior that you can teach your dog is to learn how to “sit.” “Sit” is one of the simplest tricks to teach. Learning this behavior is vital because it is an effective way to control your dog and also help you set the foundation for other training to follow.

It is very easy to teach your Pit Bull how to “”sit.” Stand right in front of him while holding a treat slightly above his eye level. Say “sit” and then move the treat closer to him until it is just above his eyes. You may have to put your other hand on his rump to prevent him from jumping up.

If he takes a step back instead of sitting down, place his rear against a wall. When he begins to look up and bend his hind legs, say “good” and then give him the treat. Repeat this process again. Have him bend his legs more and more this time until he is in a full “sit” position before saying “good” and giving him the treat.

Once your Pit Bull knows how to “sit,” he then needs to learn how to remain in the sitting position for as long as necessary. The way to do this is to teach him to “stay,” which is another very useful command that you can teach your dog.

Dogs have a dangerous habit of running off through open doors, whether from the house or from a car. It is very important to teach your dog to sit and stay until you give him the signal that it is ok to get back up. Only then can he walk through the door or exit the car.

Get your dog to sit and then say “stay” in a calm and soothing voice. If he tries to get up or lie down, immediately gently place him back into position. Have him maintain the position for a few seconds and then give the release word “ok.” Do not forget to praise and give him his favorite treat for doing a great job.

Repeat the process again, gradually increasing the amount of time that he has to sit and stay. However, do not ask your Pit Bull puppy to stay longer than 30 seconds. The goal is to let your pet succeed, not push him to the limit. Remember to be patient and to increase time and distance in small increments.

Avoid staring into your dog’s eyes if you think that it will help him to focus his attention on you. Doing so only creates the opposite effect. Your dog will sense the staring as a threat and can be intimidating.

Whip Worms

Guru Creation — Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:38:00 +0000

Treating your dog for “whipworms”

When it comes to making sure that your loving dog is healthy, both inside and out, then it is important to understand how dangerous dog parasites can be. And in order to understand this topic of being a dog owner, then you must be educated in the many different types of parasites that are out there just waiting to use your dog as a host for its feeding.

Today's article we are going to cover a particular parasite that you may not have heard of, but one that is definitely a danger to your pet dogs. They are called “whipworms”. Whipworms are such hearty organisms that they can survive outdoors for very long stretches at a time. The reason why they are called whipworms is because they actually resemble a whip in that they are thin on one end and thicker on the other end.

Like other internal worm feeders, they get into the dog's body when the dog ingests the eggs or the immature form of the whipworm. The whipworm then reaches maturity as it moves through your dog's digestive system.

The adult worms will fasten themselves and draw blood from the cecum, which is a pocket between the small and large intestines. The mature female lays her eggs inside of the host. The eggs are then excreted through the feces.

Typical symptoms that your dog may show signs of if being a host to whipworms include loose and bloody stool, a dull coat, severe weight loss, vomiting yellow-green, and anemia.

Treatment for your dog to get rid of whipworms should always start at your veterinarian's office. Your veterinarian will be able to determine the presence of whipworms by examining your dog's stool specimens. Of course several attempts may be necessary because whipworms are sometimes very difficult to detect.

Afterwards, your veterinarian will administer a potent deworming agent. Also, since you may be combating worms around the house then ask your vet for a product that will help you aid in these household whipworm problems

As a preventative measure against whipworms, if your dog is an outdoor dog, then be sure to keep him in dry quarters that are regularly exposed to the sun. The reason for this is because whipworms require moisture in order to survive.

Canine Intelligence

Guru Creation — Wed, 15 Aug 2007 17:42:00 +0000

Canine Intelligence

There are many theories about the intelligence of the dog. The majority of dog owners know that their dogs are very bright: these owners can tell any number of stories that demonstrate the animal's high intelligence.

In addition to the clever ways in which dogs outwit their owners, canine intelligence shines when dogs are asked to perform the tasks for which they were bred. For instance, the Border Collie is exceptionally quick to learn how to herd a flock of sheep, and only risk appearing stupid when you ask him to scent out a bird.

The bird dog who finds the bird naturally, without training, is labeled extremely intelligent. Yet this same genius will look dumb, and probably get trampled, if allowed to mingle with a flock of sheep.

Motivation is a big part of intelligence. One dog owner scheduled an appointment to have her dog evaluated after a discussion with her friend. The dog owner and her friend were convinced that the dog had a learning disability because the friend's Labrador Retriever could open doors with his nose and paw, whereas the other dog would just sit in front of the door and wait for someone to open it.

The idea never occurred to this person that the dog didn't want to go through the door all that badly or that he was smart enough to wait for her to open it instead of expending energy.

Another client who owned and trained Border Collies labeled one of her dogs retarded because the dog did not appear to grasp the concept of retrieving as quickly as her other Border Collies. Once the training method was adapted for the dog's particular temperament, which was different from that of the typical Border Collie, she learned and enjoyed retrieving.

This same dog would display aggression toward other dogs by growling and curling her lips to show her teeth. The trainers thought the owner was quite effective and consistent in correcting the lip curl until one of the trainers observed that when this "retarded" dog approached another canine, she quietly curled only one side of her mouth, the side the owner could not see.

Frequently, people believe that females are smarter than males. However, there is no evidence to date to support the theory of a significant difference in intelligence between the sexes. Those who claim there is a difference may be tainted by their prejudice toward or preference for one sex or the other. Intelligence is more apt to vary individually rather than by the sex of the animal.

Balanoposthitis In Your Older Dog

Guru Creation — Tue, 14 Aug 2007 23:04:00 +0000

Understanding Balanoposthitis In Your Older Dog

Certain disorders are rather common occurrences in many older dogs and are potentially life threatening. In the female dog, conditions such as mammary gland tumors and pyometra, as well as the less serious false pregnancy and mis-mating, can be prevented to varying degrees by ovariohysterectomy. If your mature dog has already had such surgery you have removed the sources of several major threats to her continuing good health.

Although castration of the male will similarly prevent at least two reproductive disorders related to aging, side effects are more extensive and such surgery is rarely recommended for preventive reasons. The treatment of existing reproductive disease may, however, require such an operation.

Balanoposthitis: This inflammation of the penis and prepuce (sheath) is seen with variable frequency in dogs of all ages, even young puppies, but is more common in aging males. Small amounts of yellow or grayish discharge at the opening of the prepuce are apparent although the dog's licking at the area may clean most of it away.

In several cases, the amount of discharge is quite large and will be greenish and pus-like, often matting the surrounding abdominal hair in long-coated dogs. The surface of the penis and the lining of the prepuce develop multiple little bumps, called lymphoid follicles, and bacteria actively begin to grow in the secretions. Should your dog have this problem, you will often find some of the discharge on the various surfaces that he lies on for any length of time.

You can usually clear up mild cases yourself by gently flushing out the sheath twice daily with hydrogen peroxide solution for a week or ten days. Using a rubber human ear syringe to hold the peroxide, insert its tip into the sheath opening, at the same time pulling the sheath gently toward the syringe.

This will avoid the syringe tip touching the penis. Holding the sheath opening firmly around the syringe tip, slowly instill the peroxide until the prepuce distends slightly. Remove the syringe, keeping the prepuce opening closed, and gently massage the fluid back and forth within the sheath. Release the opening, let the fluid drain out, and carefully clean the surrounding area.

More severe cases should be treated by your veterinarian and may require the application of irritating medications to these delicate tissues. This would, of course, be done under anesthesia and probably followed with soothing antibiotic ointments which you would continue at home as instructed.

Your older dog may be recurrently bothered by this condition. Regular flushing with peroxide or the application of an antibiotic ointment or both, done once or twice weekly should keep the discharge under control and avoid the more serious problems.

Dog Runs Away

Guru Creation — Fri, 29 Jun 2007 21:28:00 +0000

When Your Dog Runs Away

A dog that runs away from home has somewhere to go. It is quite amazing that in most cases the owners cannot tell where their dog goes. The usual answer is, "Just out in the neighborhood to see the other dogs or something." These dogs have a definite objective in mind and usually cover the same route during each journey. Why is that route or objectives more appealing than his home environment?

It must be that his environment is lacking in some respect. The root of the problem usually lies with the owner. The dog is often either over- dependent or is not in a subordinate position in relation to the owner. All corrective procedures must start with the relationship between dog and owner, except when minor external environmental adjustments are needed, such as gaining a misguided neighbor's cooperation to stop feeding the dog when he comes around.

The relationship between dog and his owner must always be considered first when solving a runaway problem. When the dog is over-dependent or too independent, he must be taught, without physical manipulation, to Come, Sit and Stay on command. The owner must make a general environmental adjustment and avoid all fondling or other stimulus-response situations that subordinate the owner to the dog's whims.

For example, a dog that nudges for petting, food tidbits, or to be let outside must be given some simple command, and then told "Good dog" and petted briefly when he obeys. The pet should then be ignored while the owner continues whatever activity was interrupted by the dog's solicitation. This helps reorient the dog to his owner's control and reverses the leadership position. Combined with daily training sessions and other corrective measures, this procedure produces results within one and three weeks.

Owners who allow their dogs to roam free in the neighborhood are contributing to the runaway problem, and should be made aware of the dangers related to this practice. The pet's safety and health are at risk because of poisoning, road accidents, fighting, and diseases contracted from other animals.

The animal may become lost, picked up by animal control officers or stolen. What is seldom considered also is that the owner may be subjected to civil suit or criminal charges if the wandering pet causes destruction of property, including fights with other dogs, or human injury.

If an owner cannot appreciate the folly of allowing a pet to roam, any attempt at teaching the animal to behave at home is wasted. When the dog has been taught to accept the confines of his own property, the problem of running away is solved, and such associated problems as dashing in or out of doors, jumping fences, and other escape behavior can be dealt with effectively.

Jealous Dog

Guru Creation — Fri, 29 Jun 2007 21:22:00 +0000

The Danger Of A Jealous Dog

In the case of jealousy the mind of a dog works in almost an identical way to that of a human being. It wants the full attention and love of its owner whether the jealousy occurs only when another dog enters the home or when the beloved owner talks to another dog outside, or whether the jealousy is aimed at another person in the home. The same driving force is at the root of the evil in all of these cases: the intention of the dog to reign alone and supreme in his household.

The guarding instinct so prevalent in some breeds has its roots in the same sort of thing; a desire to let no one enter the precincts of his master or mistress. Jealousy nearly always takes the form of a show of viciousness toward the dog or person the animal is jealous of.

Quite often it is a mild form of jealousy and only involves its bone, toy or the piece of rug that it is fond of. It jealously guards them and woe betide anyone trying to take that object away.

This jealousy is particularly pronounced when puppies are reared and kept in the household. As the puppy reaches the age of about three months the mother will begin to feel jealous as her maternal instinct fades and the time draws near for another heat. In spite of the attempt to treat both dogs equally and always to talk to both at the same time, feeding both at the same time and exercising both together, the jealousy continues to grow.

Correction works at first and then bit by bit grows less effective. In the dog's mind a usurper has entered the scene, and, as in the wild state, it is trying to turn the young out of the nest. As she fails to get rid of the now grown up pup, her temper gets worse and worse in the effort to dislodge the now adult and unwanted member of the household. She becomes more and more thwarted as her owner attempts to make the newcomer as welcome as the old established member.

Often she will turn on her owner when he is trying to make peace, as if she were trying to impress an ignorant person that it was time the youngster went out into the world to fend for itself.

If you are a really good handler your training methods will be good enough to make both dogs obey the command "Leave" when they are in your presence. The danger lies in the times you leave the dogs together on their own, for the slightest boldness on the part of the youngster in approaching the older one's basket or toy, etc., will infuriate the older dog, and she will set on the youngster tooth and nail.

Poodle Haircut

Guru Creation — Mon, 14 May 2007 03:48:00 +0000

The Poodle's coat consists of two types of hair. The outer coat should be thick, wiry and curly. The undercoat must be soft and woolly to provide warmth. Puppies, however, are exceptions. Poodle puppy coats are soft and fine with little or no curl, but often with a slight wave.

As the dog matures into adulthood, the coat develops a thick, curly quality. The best way to judge a puppy's potential adult coat is to look at the parents. If they carry good coats, theirpuppies will likely possess them too.

Ever since the first hunters trimmed their retrieving dogs to prevent drowning, the Poodle hairstyle has been a favorite topic of conversation among dog people. Initially, Poodles sported either a Continental clip or an English Saddle clip. Now, hundreds of years later, these are still popular as they are required clips for show dogs.

Puppies under one year of age are shown in a simple trim known as a “Puppy clip”. Only the face, throat, feet and base of tail are clipped. The tail displays the characteristic pompom at its end. The body coat is lightly trimmed to give it a neat unbroken line for a pleasant appearance.

The “Continental clip” has full hair around the chest and rib cage, with shaved hindquarters and legs. Large pompons are sculpted over each hip above the area of the kidneys (optional) and around the ankles for protection from the cold.

The “English Saddle clip” permits a short mantle of hair over the hindquarters and fullcoat from the waist to the topknot and ears. The ankle and knee joints are also protected with pompons.

All Poodles are given a topknot of hair over the skull that is brushed out and groomed to stand erect in a rounded pompon. Adult dogs must be shown in either the English Saddle or Continental clip; the only exception being competitors in Stud Dog classes, for which a Sporting clip is permitted. The English Saddle and Continental are the clips of choice for the conformation ring around the world, except in the UK, where the Lion clip is preferred.

Pet Poodles and those not being shown in breed conformation classes at dog shows are usually groomed in styles designed for ease of maintenance. Often the body hair is clipped short, with the legs trimmed a bit longer. Some male Poodles sport tiny mustaches around the muzzles.

The pet style is usually determined by the owner's willingness and capability to maintain the coat in a well-groomed fashion. In addition. Poodles that spend a lot of time outdoors are usually kept shorter because it's easier to keep the coat clean when the hair isn't too long.

Puppy Training Tips

Guru Creation — Mon, 14 May 2007 03:46:00 +0000

Whatever your pup's pedigree and whatever your goals for him, any puppy is still an emotionally immature animal. At the same time, no two pups are exactly alike and what works for one puppy is not necessarily best for another.

You must constantly be aware of your pup's personality and of how you can get him to pay attention to you. However, there are some general characteristics of puppy training that are important to working with all puppies. These are basic principles which should be adapted by you as the basis of working with your puppy.

Do not get tough: Emotionally and psychologically, the puppy is still extremely sensitive. This means that learning takes place quickly, but also that fears can easily occur and inhibit learning.

Pups cannot take pressure or harsh treatment. Repetition is the key to puppy training. Never punish him if he does not do what you want him to do. This will defeat the purpose of the training and cause him to dislike the entire procedure.

Bad behavior during training sessions is more often than not a sign of the pup's lack of confidence or understanding of what you want him to do. Therefore, many repetitions will be needed.

Keep it simple: A puppy learns to do things in a step-by-step manner. For example, in teaching him to stay, do not expect him to stay put for several minutes at a time while you are off someplace away from him.

You must first teach him to stay while you stand toe-to-toe in front of him, then to stay when you are standing a couple of feet out in front of him, then to stay while you walk around him, then to stay while you are standing several feet away and not holding on to the leash.

Many pups will take several weeks to progress through these steps, but they are necessary if you want to teach "Stay" effectively. If you tell him to do something before you have properly trained him to do it and then scold him for not doing it, you are
asking for trouble. The pup will lose his confidence and will learn not to try.

Be brief: Puppies have a very short attention span. A pup learns only while he is paying attention to you, so it does not accomplish anything to keep on training when he is mentally tired even though physically he is still very lively.

Five minutes at a time is long enough. With many puppies, two minutes is long enough to begin with, gradually moving up to five minutes.

Build confidence: Your puppy needs confidence-building as well as discipline and he will constantly be telling you by his body language which one he needs more at any particular time.

Relax while you are with him; smile; speak in a pleasant voice; play running games with him. In puppy training, building confidence means knowing what you expect from your pup.

Rewards And Punishments

Guru Creation — Mon, 14 May 2007 03:41:00 +0000

Using Rewards And Punishments In Puppy Training: Part 1

Puppies and dogs learn new things or change their behavior only if the undesirable behavior is punished or the desirable behavior rewarded. We can reward a dog for performing certain tasks on command, such as sitting, lying down, or coming, with simple petting, affection, and praise. You can also use rewards for coming when called, for sitting when strangers arrive at the door rather than jumping up on them, or for going to rest on his bed when people are visiting.

For rewards you can use reinforcement such as petting or verbal reassurance like saying "good dog." Another reward is food treats, if given judiciously, especially foods the puppy really enjoys such as a piece of meat. It is not our position that using food treats to train puppies "spoils" them, because the treat may simply be phased out by giving it less and less frequently, while retaining the praise and affection.

Most puppies learn rapidly and quite willingly if there are rewards, and in most cases punishment is not necessary. Praise and affection, along with food treats, can be used to house-train puppies, especially when they are taken outdoors and can eliminate in a desirable area.

Punishment can be thought of as being either interactive or remote. In interactive punishment, the owner hits an animal with his hand or with a rolled-up newspaper, shouts at it, or in other ways makes it obvious that an aversive stimulus is coming from the person. The animal clearly associates the unpleasant stimulus with the person giving it.

Unfortunately, dog owners are frequently misguided about how to use interactive punishment.
Interactive punishment is indicated when owners must assert their dominance over dogs to maintain an acceptable dominant-subordinate relationship, especially when threatened. A dog's growling or snapping at you when it is not a reflection of fear is best met with force. Dogs are social animals that respond naturally to factors in a dominance hierarchy, and their growling or snapping at you is an indication that they have not completely accepted your dominant position. In fact, insufficient dominance, one of the most common behavioral problems of a dog-owner relationship, often stems from a lack of assertiveness on the owner's part.

Breeds differ in the degree to which they display a tendency to be dominant over their owners. The tendency to be dominant also varies with whether we are dealing with male or female dogs. A breed such as a Shetland Sheepdog, which is very low on tendency to be dominant, may never need to be confronted with interactive punishment, whereas a Doberman Pinscher or Akita may need periodic reinforcement of the dominance position with a sharp voice.

Why Does my Dog do That?

Guru Creation — Tue, 08 May 2007 00:27:00 +0000

There are some things a dog cannot help doing. If he is going to bite someone, he needs to look at his target, and he needs to bare his teeth.

If he is going to defend himself, he has to tuck his ears back and his tail down and turn aside. In the dark unrecorded mists of wolf history, wolves that had the wits to notice these things had an edge over their more obtuse pack-mates.

Being on the lookout for the fangs or the intent stare of a more powerful member of the pack was a way to avoid unnecessary physical injury from a wolf one had no intention of challenging anyway; being on the lookout for the cringe or the averted gaze of a weaker member was a way to avoid the unnecessary trouble and danger of fighting with a wolf who was prepared to give way without a fight anyway.

Once wolves were on the lookout for unintentionally dropped hints, it became possible to start dropping them intentionally. A wolf that can accurately read a fang or a stare as a threat can avoid a fight and a wolf that can show a fang or fix a stare can then express a threat without a fight.

This evolutionary feedback loop between receivers and senders is what was almost surely behind the development and rituals of the visual signals that wolves, and now dogs, use.

Most of these signals are directly related to the very serious wolf business of dominance and submission within the pack. Dominance and threatening signals include baring the teeth, pricking the ears, and staring.

Submissive and nonthreatening signals include laying the ears back, averting the gaze, approaching obliquely rather than head on, tucking the tail tightly under the belly, and (the ultimate gesture of passive surrender to superior force) rolling over and lying belly-up.

Over sufficiently long time, these signals become ritualized. Every time a wolf lifts his lips and shows his fangs, he is not literally about to bite; rather this is a symbol of threatening intentions, and, at this point in the evolutionary history of the wolf, read as such by other wolves.

Wolves are predisposed to read it that way because of the indisputable fact of evolutionary history that fangs really do bite. Wolves became in turn disposed to use a show of fangs as a threatening gesture precisely because wolves were predisposed to react to fangs as a threat.

Just about all vertebrate animals long ago acquired an innate appreciation of another biological fact that is frequently exploited in visual communication: big things out there are more dangerous than small things. Thus threatening or dominance-asserting wolves try to literally look big.

They stand erect, sometimes astride the animal they are attempting to impress, they raise their tails, they stiffen their hackles.

Submissive or fearful dogs try to look small by crouching low, sometimes even dragging themselves along the ground. It is important to realize that this does not mean that the big- looking wolf is conscious of how big he looks, nor that any other wolf is fooled into thinking he really is big.

Again, these are rituals. But they ultimately derive from the fact that wolves have been wired to react in ways that make these rituals effective.

Dog Feeding Tips

Guru Creation — Tue, 08 May 2007 00:22:00 +0000

Rule 1: A dog should be fed by the same person at every feeding. This rule is not nearly as important where a couple of house pets are being fed by several members of the same family, as it is where large numbers of dogs are being fed by numerous different kennel personnel.

It is particularly applicable where dogs are in strange environments such as boarding kennels, veterinary hospitals, or show arenas.

Dogs that have become accustomed to one feeder may exhibit all sorts of erratic eating behavior if that person is changed.

Rule 2: Every dog should have its own food and water container. This precaution is not only sound behavioral psychology, it also is just plain good hygiene.

It is especially wise to assign food bowls on an individual basis when your feeding containers are noticeably different from one another. Besides improved feeding technique, certain practical benefits are to be gained from following this rule.

In racing stables, for example, where maintenance of body weight is so important, feeding instructions can be written on the bottom or the side of each dog's feeding container, right next to its name or number.

Rule 3: A dog should be fed in the same place every time it is fed. Whether it be the corner of the kitchen, beside the back-door steps, at the rear of a kennel run, or along the left-side wall of a cage, the site where the food container is placed should remain the same every day.

In fact, everything that's done with the food container should be identical at each feeding. lf you use a push cart or wagon to carry the tub of food to the dogs, always use the same cart and tub.

lf you pre-fill food bowls in the diet kitchen and carry them on the cart, don't decide one day to carry the tub of food on the cart and fill each bowl as you reach the dog.

It may have become boring to you, but to your dog it has become the way of life. A change only serves to disrupt his way of life and to create cause for insecurity.

Rule 4: No dog should ever have its food changed without a good reason. Contrary to popular opinion, dogs do not need a change in food from time to time to keep them from growing tired of the same food all the time.

Many dogs have lived normal, healthy lives by eating the same food throughout their entire lifetimes. In many instances where a dog owner thinks a dog has gotten sick and tired of a food, the dog has just gotten sick from the food.

Not so sick, perhaps, that it really showed, but sick enough to stop eating. When a dog food is deficient, it is not uncommon for a dog eating that food to lose its appetite. Of course, nutritional deficiencies are not the only thing that will cause a dog to lose its appetite.

Dog Hates Men or Women?

Guru Creation — Thu, 03 May 2007 06:18:00 +0000

Dealing With Dogs That Hate Either Men or Women

Hating men or women is the most peculiar form of instability in dogs. They seem to be sweet and happy with one sex and nervous or vicious with the other. What form of neurosis causes this we don't know. What can an owner do to make a dog with this nature livable?

First, examine the owner's mind. Has he or she ever had a grudge against the opposite sex? Did an overpowering schoolteacher make the young boy's or girl's life a misery? Does he or she boast that they only get along with men or women?

Alsatians are peculiar in this way and will hate men or women instinctively if thought transference comes from an owner with a similar dislike. Many women like big guard dogs, and the big guard dog thrives in this state of affairs and easily develops a dislike of the sex the owner wishes to dominate.

Corgis do the same. This has been particularly noted in these two breeds, partly because they are highly intelligent breeds and telepathy is very marked and partly because the shepherding instinct is uppermost and they have a natural suspicion of strangers. Correct them firmly when young and one gets no further trouble. Accept their suspicious natures, and you will have dogs that hate men or women, usually women.

Now how do we live with such dogs? The world being what it is, we can't mix with only one sex. Even husbands or wives are a necessity, and it is often against the one or the other that the particular hate is centered. I think the solution is either to send the dog to be boarded or trained by a person of the sex it hates, or else get friends of that sex to feed it or take it for walks.

If it shows any signs of being vicious, muzzle it and send it out for a long walk with the person it dislikes. Greet joyously that person when he or she returns and praise the dog. Make the person pat the dog and praise it before saying goodbye and, if possible, give it its food.

Of course there aren't many good friends who will do this, but I think that if an advertisement was put in the local newspaper, some dog lover would respond. It might even help to employ a "dog sitter" of the hated sex when you go out so that when you are out, the only comfort the dog would get would be from the sex it dislikes.

Only by being made to tolerate people will it respond. Obviously, if a female owner has been jilted and hates all men, her dog will naturally pick up this feeling when the owner is talking to a man. In many cases, all these faults in dogs can be traced to some minor mental disturbance of the owner, although the owner may be unaware of it.

Pit Bull Kennel

Guru Creation — Wed, 02 May 2007 22:48:00 +0000

A visit to the Pit Bull Kennel

Professional breeders and hobby breeders who place their ads in all-breed dog magazines or especially in Pit Bull-only magazines are very serious about their dogs. And since most breeders are aware of the increasing popularity of online advertisements, many of them nowadays join the information age and set up a website to display their ads.

Whether your main source for finding your perfect puppy is through online or breed-specific magazines, you can find a wide variety of quality Pit Bulls from a reputable and honest breeder.

But what makes for an honest and reputable breeder? The fact is that although a breeder may seem professional and knowledgeable, there is still no guarantee that he or she is a good and honest breeder. Some breeders are only motivated by profit and could not care any less about their dogs. It is up to you to use your instinct and better judgment to determine if the breeder of your choice is honest and trustworthy.

If possible, try to visit the facilities personally so you can take a look around and make your own observation. Watch how the breeders treat their dogs as well as the overall atmosphere of the place. Keep away from Pit Bull breeders who treat their dogs like livestock or fighting animals. Also, if the breeder does not allow visits from prospective buyers, then you are probably better off looking some place else.

Watch out for clues that the breeder is breeding Pit Bulls to use as fighting dogs. These breeders may have their dogs tethered on heavy chains. You may see spring poles, treadmills, and other equipment used for building muscles and strength. This type of equipment, however, is also found in Pit Bull breeders who are not raising fighting dogs. Many show breeders use treadmills to condition their dogs. In addition, many breeders and pet owners have spring poles simply for their dog’s fun and exercise.

Observe the other Pit Bull dogs in the kennel and watch out for any scars, particularly big ones. Old scars on dogs may indicate that they have been used for fighting, although they could also indicate accidents. But finding a lot of dogs with scars, especially around the area of the face strongly suggests either a fighting history, or of a very careless breeder.

Know exactly what you are looking for. Do you want a Pit Bull simply as a companion and a playmate for your kids or one that you can train to be a show dog? Being honest with the breeder about your intentions will get you the Pit Bull that is perfect for you and your family.

Dog Getting Old

Guru Creation — Tue, 24 Apr 2007 04:45:00 +0000

Changes In Your Aging Dog

Aging dogs are less adaptable to, and more adversely affected by, stress and change. Yet so many dog owners do not take this into consideration when making plans involving their older dog. For example, for years you and your dog enjoyed those races through the woods or around the playground. You may still enjoy it now, but your older dog possibly finds it difficult to keep up with you.

What used to be lots of fun may now make him a bit grouchy and force him to breathe abnormally hard. You have just redecorated the house, and what used to be your dog's favorite spot to relax in, is now occupied by a piece of furniture. Your dog becomes restless, temperamental, may even urinate or defecate in the house or right on that piece of furniture, and you cannot understand why.

It is not necessary to baby or spoil a dog just because he is aging. In fact, this should be carefully avoided, as it is a trap into which many dog owners readily fall. You should encourage your older dog to take part in family life as always, but you must be alert to avoid undue stresses or unnecessary changes.

That piece of new furniture does not have to stand on the exact spot where he has snoozed for more than ten years. In his mind that spot is his personal territory. Even in his youth such a loss would have been upsetting, but he would soon find another acceptable location. The older dog finds it more difficult to adjust and can develop undesirable behavior as a result.

A dog is both a dependent and an independent animal in his relationship with you. In youth he will follow your every footstep even to the point of getting underfoot. His greatest joy is to be with you everywhere, and there are few times he wants to be by himself.

As he gets older, however, this will often change, and he may seek solitude much more of the time. He loves you still but, depending on his physical state, he just prefers to be by himself. He will play with you and be your companion, but do not expect necessarily the same kind of response you got from him when he was a lot younger.

Take care not to "kill him with kindness" by offering what you consider tasty morsels of human food such as cake, ice cream, bacon, or liver pate. Such sudden changes in diet can produce serious stomach and intestinal upset, resulting in profuse vomiting or diarrhea. It may also encourage your dog to refuse his normal food and hold out for the "goodies” which in time can cause severe nutritional imbalance.

Lowchen

Guru Creation — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:13:00 +0000

Lowchen Dog Breed

The Lowchen is a member of the Bichon family and shares the title of “the little lion dog” with the imperial Pekingese. He has been well known and popular in Europe for several centuries. The little lion dog came from the practice of clipping the breed in the traditional poodle exhibition cut, the lion clip, which, complete with mane and tufted tail, gives him the look of a miniature lion. Though he may appear to be delicate, the Lowchen is a robust dog that is full of energy. He is an affectionate, intelligent, healthy small dog with a happy disposition and makes for a good show dog.

Size: A healthy adult Lowchen stands at about 10-13in and weighs between 4-9lb.

History: This breed is believed to be a French dog. He is registered with the FCI as of native origin under the title “petit chien lion.” He has definitely been well known in both France and Spain from the late 1500s and is believed to have been a favorite by the charming Duchess of Alba. In fact, a dog that possesses a strong similarity to the Lowchen appears in a portrait of the Duchess painted by the Spanish artist Francisco Goya (1746-1828). The Lowchen was said to have evolved in the Mediterranean area about the same time as the Bichon Frise, the Bichon Bolognese, and the Maltese. Nowadays, this breed is steadily becoming a frequent contender in the show ring in many countries.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Lowchen is 1/3 -1/2 can of high quality meat product (13.30z size) with added biscuit of equal amount in volume or 1-1 ½ cupfuls of a complete dry food. Just like all breeds, make sure that he is getting unlimited supply of drinking water.

Exercise: This breed is suitable for country as well as town living. He requires regular exercise such as a brisk walk or a good run in the park.

Grooming: Daily brushing is necessary in order to maintain the breed’s coat in good condition. Most owners prefer to take this dog to a professional groomer to get the ideal clipping, especially for show dogs.

Teach Your Dog to Sit and Stay

Guru Creation — Sun, 22 Apr 2007 21:18:00 +0000

New Puppies First Day

Guru Creation — Sat, 21 Apr 2007 20:21:00 +0000

On your puppy's first day home, give him a complete tour around the house on a loose leash. This is the pup's first introduction to whatever limitations you want to put on his future access to your possessions - your furniture, golf clubs, books, the kids' toy shelves, etc.

This is not the right time for "no." (The puppy might begin to think that "no" is his name!) Instead, use a guttural "Yack!" combined with a very slight tug-and-release of the leash as he sniffs to warn him away from untouchables. He's new at this, but just saying, "Puppy!" in a happy voice may be enough to get him to look at you - "Good dog." Back to happy chatter as you move on.

All you are doing is letting him know by means of prevention (a growl sound he understands) what things he will have to avoid in the future. Let him sniff first because he'll remember the objects more by scent than by sight. He looks up at you and he is praised. Think of it this way: "No!" means "Don't do that!" whereas "Yack!" means "Don't even think of doing it!" Chit-chat is natural and pleasurable to both of you; but in the beginning the puppy will only pick up on his name because everyone uses it in connection with things he finds pleasurable - play, food or praise.

If you use the word "din-din" many times while fixing his meals, that word will stand out in the midst of a five minute speech on nutrition as a clue to the observant pup that he is about to eat. The human-canine teaching language is based on short, simple words that are consistently applied to specific actions.

This first guided tour teaches your puppy the layout of his new home, what it looks like, smells like, even feels like (rugs, carpets, tile, wood) and that some things are off limits even to adorable puppies. There is one more important lesson he is learning from this adventure: that you are his new Leader, the He or She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed. If you do not take on this role, the puppy will.

Somebody's got to do it, and he'll fill the vacancy immediately! You may be familiar with the saying, "Lead, follow or get out of my way." Every dog is born knowing it and continues to live by it!

Once the house tour is over, now it's down to specifics. Show Sparky where his water bowl will always be. Let him investigate his crate. Then take him outside (still on leash) to the exact area where you want him to eliminate. Stand there until he does.

(Patience. He's new at this.) Praise quietly as he goes, after which you can make the same kind of tour outside, with warnings about flower or vegetable beds, bushes or plants. Or you may live in a city and by law (and responsible dog ownership) must curb Sparky. Go to the quietest no-parking spot you can find.

If you remain on the sidewalk, he will naturally want to join you, so stand down in the street with him. It will take time, plus your casual, confident attitude, to get him used to the noise, the confusion and the speed and size of trucks and taxis. No outside walking tour at this time. Wait until his immunizations are complete, by which time he will also be more accepting of city life.

Note: If the original trip home from where you picked up Sparky took more than an hour, reverse the two "tours" to let the pup eliminate first.

Purchasing A Show Dog

Guru Creation — Fri, 20 Apr 2007 02:08:00 +0000

Purchasing A Show Dog Puppy

It would be hard to tell you exactly what you ought to pay for a dog good enough to show and have some fun with. In addition to the fact that prices vary a great deal in the various breeds, and not taking into consideration the actual worth of a dog because of his good or bad points, there are many other things that enter into the price you must pay for a good dog. Here are a few:

1. How many other good dogs has the seller in his kennel? By selling you the only good one, he may be left without anything to show himself, and if he wants to show, the price may go up.

2. How crowded are the seller's facilities? If he is overcrowded, he may be willing to sell at a lower price than usual.

3. Can the owner afford to show? If not, he may sell for less in order to give the dog the opportunity to be shown more frequently.

4. How many other persons are interested? Naturally, if several persons express the desire to buy the same dog, the price of that dog might go up.

There have been show dogs which were sold for $50 and even some which sold at about $7,500 or more. But if you know your breed before you start out to buy, you at least will know what you are getting - and remember, the price paid for a dog is not the most important consideration. I once knew a man who thought his dog should win over another simply because he paid more for his dog than did the owner of the other dog.

Also, let me bring up another point. There is one thing you are going to hear frequently, and if you take my advice you won't pay any attention to it. You'll hear that in order to win at shows you must be rich or at least employ a professional handler. This talk usually comes from the disgruntled or bad loser. It is not true! And if the dog breeder tries to tell you this when selling you dog at an outrageous price, then walk away!

The advice and helpful hints you will find when doing your research will help you to understand the rules of a dog show, will help you to get your dog entered at a show, and into the ring. You will find all types of information as to how to show it to its best advantage, but remember, the quality of the dog itself is up to you. The price you pay for your dog has no bearing on how well he will score at a show.

Purchasing A Show Dog

Dog Show

Guru Creation — Thu, 19 Apr 2007 03:15:00 +0000

Inside The Ring: Always Be At Your Best!

With your eyes on your dog, glancing up occasionally to see what the judge is doing, be prepared for the judge to call out or point out his placing of the dogs. If he says to you, "first," or "One," or points to you and holds up one finger, go at once to the first-place number marker in the ring. If you are showing a very tiny dog, it would not be harmful to pick him up and carry him to first place.

If you have a large dog and the lead has been removed, put it on him quickly and go to first place. If the judge calls to you "Second," "Third," or "Fourth," or points to you or catches your eye and holds up two, three, or four fingers, go at once to the proper marker.

Now is the time for you to give your dog a great big pat and/or a tidbit. Let him know he has performed to your satisfaction and you are pleased with him. He'll come to look forward to this moment of glory in the ring and will eventually love the applause. At first it may frighten him a bit, so be prepared.

If the judge does not advise you in some fashion that your dog has been placed in the class, leave the ring. If you want to watch what is going on, do so from the outside of the ring.

If you are not placed, you remain in the ring only if the judge specifically asks you to or if you are entered in the next class with the same dog, and then you should go to the side of the ring and wait until the dogs who have been placed in this class leave the ring.

Let us assume, however, that your dog has placed in his class. If the judge has gone to his table to mark his book, or if he has his book in his hands and is writing in it, just be sure that he can see your arm band. The band may have slipped around so that the number is not visible. Make it as easy as you can for the judge to see the number.

Before marking his book, however, if the judge should hesitate or take another look at the dogs, which are now standing in front of the numbers one, two, three, and four, be sure to keep your dog in a show pose.

If the judge hesitates, it may mean that he has not completely made up his mind and he may change the placings. Once he writes down his placings in his book, he will not change them, but a class is not considered judged until it has been written down by the judge. If he hesitates and you are standing in front of the Number One spot with your dog in a sloppy or poor position, and the Number Two dog is looking his very best, that dog may catch the judge's eye.

He may change his mind, changing you from first place to second and the second-place dog to first. If you were in fourth place and the third dog at this moment looked inferior, the judge might decide that he liked your dog better and move you up to third place before marking his book.

Training your Pit Bull

Guru Creation — Wed, 18 Apr 2007 05:43:00 +0000

Training your Pit Bull to “down” and “heel”

There will be many occasions when you will need your Pit Bull to stay in one place for more than 30 seconds at a time. It is easy for him to get impatient after a while on a sit and stand position. Teaching him the “down” command can come in really handy for this type of situation.

Begin teaching “down” by getting your dog in a sitting position. Say “down” while showing him a treat. Move the treat below his nose and toward the ground. Give it to him as soon as he reaches down to get it. Go over the process again, this time requiring him to reach farther down without lifting his rear from the ground, until he eventually lowers his elbows to the ground. Never try to force him into the down position. Doing so can scare a submissive dog and cause a dominant dog to resist. As soon as he is familiar with the “down” command, practice “down-stay” the same way as “sit-stay.”

Walking on-leash is probably the exercise that your Pit Bull does most often. In this case, teaching him to walk right beside you should be fairly easy. But if walking on-leash is new to him, he will more likely resist the leash or freeze in his tracks once he realizes that his freedom is being restricted. If your dog is not used to walking on leash, do not try to drag her along. You have to coax your dog a few steps at a time with food. Reward and praise him as he follows you. This helps him realize that following you while walking on-leash is a good experience.

When he gets used to walking alongside you, he is ready for his next step. Teaching your Pit Bull the command “heel” creates for a more enjoyable and relaxing walk with him by not having the pull the leash. It is also a way of letting your dog know that it is your turn to lead the walk.

Having your dog heel means making him walk on your left side with his shoulder even with your knee. Lining up your feet and your dog’s front paws is also ideal. Say his name followed by “heel,” then step off with your left foot first and keep on walking. During the few practices, stay on a short lead, hold him in the heel position, and continue with the praise.

If your dog still tries to walk ahead of you after showing him what he is supposed to do, gently pull him back to position with a quick light tug and then take the lead. As you progress with the training, try walking at different speeds and turning right and left to your walks. Practice in different locations and around different distractions.

Fats & Carbohydrates For Dogs

Guru Creation — Tue, 17 Apr 2007 22:08:00 +0000

Animal Fats: While most animal fats contain just as many calories as vegetable oils, only two contain essential fatty acids in amounts sufficient to supply a dog's needs. These are the fat of the pig, commonly called lard, and horse fat.

The tallow of beef and mutton should never be used as the sole source of energy for a dog because of their low content of essential fatty acids. Animal fats contain about 126 calories in every tablespoonful.

Cereal grains: One of the major sources of carbohydrates, both for dogs and man, is the cereal grains. The useful carbohydrate in these grains is predominantly starch. Starch can also be purchased in pure form, and contains about 29 calories per tablespoon, or about 464 calories per cup.

Other sources of carbohydrate energy from cereal grains can be obtained from dry and cooked breakfast cereals, boiled rice, hominy grits, corn meal, and in the milled form, such as flour. Cereal grain products should never constitute more than about 50 percent of the dry matter of a dog's diet.

Potatoes: Except for the fact that potatoes have more water in them, the amount of carbohydrates in potatoes is almost the same as in the cereal grains. Potatoes can be used interchangeably with those cereals that are fed in the boiled state. Like cereals, potatoes should never constitute more than 50 percent of the dry matter of the diet.

Bread: As a source of carbohydrates in a diet, white or whole wheat bread ranks among the better ''natural'' foods available to a dog feeder. It usually is fortified with vitamins and minerals, is palatable to most dogs, and is always available and inexpensive. Some dog owners who feed their pets natural ingredients insist that bread should be toasted before being fed to a dog.

While such a practice makes the slices easier to crumble and mix with the rest of the diet, the starches in bread have already been subjected to cooking and about all toasting does is to enhance the texture of the bread.

Specialty flour products: A carbohydrate source frequently overlooked by a dog owner is the specialty product made from flour noodles, macaroni, and spaghetti. These have an energy content comparable to other cereal grain products.

And, like rice and hot cereals, they have the advantage of being able to be added dry to a food, then being cooked after the water has been added. This gives the capability of mixing a large amount of dry food at one time, then adding water and cooking small amounts as it is needed.

Dog Training Tips

Guru Creation — Sat, 14 Apr 2007 18:13:00 +0000

3 Important Training Tips For Every Dog Owner

1. Be fair with corrections. Make sure your dog understands what you want before you correct him for not doing it. And let the punishment fit the crime. A correction should not be a release of anger, a clearing out of pent-up feelings by unloading them on the apparent cause of the problem, your dog. Instead, a correction is another way to communicate with your dog, to foster in him a clear understanding of his place in your human pack.

As such, a proper correction is another way to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. At its mildest level, a correction is the absence of praise. Remember to always ask yourself if you're being fair before you give in to the knee-jerk reaction to leash-jerk.

2. Be positive. This tip refers to having the right attitude, of course, but it's more than that. Praise that's well timed and appropriate is essential to your dog's learning process. If all you ever do is tell your dog "no," your relationship isn't going to be a very good one. How would you like to work with a boss like that?

Praise is cheap and free - so use it, lots! Use praise when your dog tries to get it right. Use it more when your dog succeeds. Use it when your dog just pays attention to you, because that's the first step in the training. You don't have to be some gushing goof, but you do need to let your dog know when you're proud of her.

3. When training your dog, be on the same team. Don't think of training your dog as a you versus your dog endeavor. Think instead about the two of you being on the same team, albeit in different positions. Consider yourself the quarterback, if you like: You call the plays. Winning is a team effort.

Of course, your dog has to learn the plays first, and you're the one to teach him. And this relationship is still not an adversarial one. You show your dog the things he needs to learn, and you do so with love and respect, which your dog will return in kind.

To bring your dog onto your team and show him the plays you'll be calling, you need to spend time with him. Bring him into your life. Let him sleep in a crate in your bedroom, practice his "sits" in the kitchen. The more opportunities for interaction and practice you have, the faster and more reliably your dog performs.

Dog Training Tips