The whelping process will be easier for both you and your bitch if you know what to expect and plan ahead for any potential problems. Your bitch will indicate to you that she’s approaching labor. The more obvious signs of laboring behavior are restlessness, panting or shivering, and preparing a nesting area.
It’s a good idea to provide a proper whelping box to keep mom and her babies warm and clean. A sturdy cardboard box lined with clean newspaper is an inexpensive solution, and is easy to dispose of after the pups are weaned. When your bitch starts to shred the newspaper and arrange her nesting area, delivery is only a few days away. It is a good idea to have supplies such as tissues, paper towels, clean towels and garbage bags set out ahead of time to prepare for whelping.
Just before whelping, your bitch may lose her appetite and become very clingy. Her temperature will drop in that last day before birth, from a normal rectal temperature of between 101 and 102 degrees Fahrenheit to around 98.5 degrees. She may also begin to leak milk from her nipples.
The birthing process has three distinct stages. During the first stage, regular uterine contractions begin, and become more frequent as her delivery gets closer. Your dog may vomit and she may begin to discharge clear, mucoid fluid from her vagina.
The second stage begins when the bitch’s abdomen starts contracting hard, and pushing the puppies out. She will either lie down or squat to deliver her pups. Normal deliveries usually begin within ten to sixty minutes of the onset of hard contractions.
The puppies may be born in their amniotic sac, and your bitch will immediately begin to break the bag, clean her babies and chew through the umbilical cord. If she doesn’t, you will need to step in to make sure the puppies are freed from the sac and breathing properly. Once the babies are dried off, the cord can be carefully tied off and snipped so the mother can continue to care for her new babies.
The final stage of whelping involves delivery of the placenta, or afterbirth, for each puppy. The placenta may or may not still be attached to the pup. The bitch may attempt to eat her placenta, which sounds gross but is quite normal behavior. If she doesn’t want to eat it, that’s fine too, there’s no specific nutritional value in it.
Newborns may attempt to suckle their mother during her delivery. This is a good thing, because it stimulates the production of oxytocin. This hormone helps the uterus to contract, and speeds up delivery of any remaining pups. Keep a close watch on your bitch, so she doesn’t accidentally lie on her newborns as she delivers the remainder of her litter.
This is what happens in a normal delivery. If complications arise, don’t hesitate to call your veterinarian. If your bitch has a fresh bloody discharge from the vagina, a rise in rectal temperature beyond 102 degrees, or hard contractions that don’t produce a puppy for more than thirty minutes, contact your veterinarian immediately.
If your bitch becomes depressed or exhausts herself to the point where she stops delivering, she may need a cesarean section to deliver her litter.
The birthing process can be long and arduous for both dog and owner. By being prepared for any eventuality before your bitch gives birth will help make the process as stress free as possible.
House training your puppy can be one of the most important, and potentially stressful and time-consuming, aspects of having a new puppy in the house. It is very important to start as soon as you introduce your puppy to the house, and be sure to remain consistent and vigilant.
Before you even bring your puppy into the home, it has already started learning that there are some places he shouldn’t eliminate. When puppies are with their mothers, they quickly learn to go to the toilet away from the main sleeping area.
Investing in a crate is usually the easiest way to house train a young puppy. Contrary to what some people may think, crate training is actually not cruel to the animal. The crate becomes your puppy’s den, and he can use it when he needs some time away from potentially stressful family activities. It’s a good idea to feed your puppy in the crate, and make it comfortable so that he is happy to go into it.
When your puppy is comfortable in the crate, you can gradually start to shut door, then to leave the puppy alone in it for a little while. Allow your puppy to sleep in the crate, and, again, it will not go to the toilet in the sleeping area. Remember, routine and consistency makes house training easier and faster.
Do not give your dog anything to eat after dinnertime. Also, remember to also take him outside to go just before you go to bed at night. In the early stages of house training, you will need to get up during the night to take your puppy outside to go to the toilet, as he can’t hold on for very long. As soon as you get up in the morning, again take him outside to go to the toilet.
Also, make sure you take him to the same part of your yard each time. The smell there will encourage him to go to the toilet in that area. You may need to wait for a while he sniffs around, but do be patient, and remember to praise him when he does eventually go.
If your puppy does have an accident inside the house, use an enzyme-based cleaner to remove all of the traces. If you do not do this, the smell will persist there and he may be encouraged to go to the toilet there again in the future.
If your puppy does make a mistake, do not yell, get angry, or even worse, rub his nose in it. Doing this can lead to fear and toileting problems, such as hiding to go to toilet because they’re scared of your reaction. It can also damage your relationship with your dog. It is better to keep an eye on your puppy at all times, and give him every opportunity to do the right thing.
As with children, gentle persistence and consistency will lead to them eventually becoming house trained. If you do it correctly, it will be as stress free as possible, for both you and your pup.
Choosing a dog can be a very exciting time for all involved, yet it is vital for you to get it right. There are a few things which you and your family must consider before buying a dog, if you are to make the right match and avoid problems later on.
It is imperative that you avoid an impulse buy, as this can lead to heartache and problems for both you and your dog.
Before getting a dog, you must take a look at your budget. It can cost well over $1,000 per year for very basic care, not including things such as vet fees for illness or injury. It is also important to consider your budget when choosing a particular breed. For example, bigger dogs eat more food and need more medication, so the costs for them are higher than for smaller dogs.
One of the most important things to think about is your lifestyle and housing situations. Yard size must be carefully and honestly considered, as larger breeds obviously need more space than smaller ones. Fencing around your property must be secure to prevent them getting out.
Your free time must be carefully reviewed, as time must be devoted to the exercising and taking care of the puppy. In addition, some breeds, such as herding breeds, have more energy and need more exercise than others. For the most part, dogs tend not to run around and exercise themselves, that is your responsibility as an owner. Do you work? Dogs are generally pack animals and not designed to be solitary creatures. If they are left on their own a lot, this can cause bad behavior such as excessive barking, digging and escaping.
Do you have time and money for regular clipping and general grooming? If not, it is best to choose a more low maintenance breed with shorter coat. If you have children, that is also something to consider. Some big breeds too boisterous and can knock children over. Also, some toy breeds can be more susceptible to injury, and younger children may play rough with them, dropping them, for example.
One thing to consider is whether you would like a purebred or a mutt. Purebreds tend to be more predictable with regards to things such as size and temperament. Mutts of unknown parentage can be a bit of a gamble, but they can also make good pets. You may also choose to adopt an older dog, rather than puppy to avoid hard work of raising a young animal. But make sure that the dog has been raised well. Also, some breeds are prone to hereditary health issues, like orthopedic problems or skin allergies. If you want one of these breeds, you need to take into account the time and money which may need to be spent keeping them well.
It can be helpful to go to dog show and look at the breeds. Speak to owners and breeders of breeds which you like.
Dog selecting websites can help. You just input lifestyle factors and it can suggest some breeds which may be appropriate.
While choosing a puppy, look for the bright eyed, confident, alert puppy that is interested in you. Avoid overly shy or timid dogs. Similarly, avoid pushy over assertive ones too.
Taking time to choose the right puppy for you and your circumstances is very beneficial, and will result in you and your dog having a great life together.
Determining The Amount Of Dog Food Needed For Your Dog
The pet dog has the same nutritional needs as any other dog. The only difference is the reduced number of calories it uses because of the type of life a dog leads as a household pet. The house dog living exclusively indoors is probably one of the least active animals in the world. More inactive, even, than its owner.
Most of a house dog’s time is spent sleeping. Its greatest effort, in many instances, consists of a 10-foot walk from the back door three times a day for eliminations, and a 10-foot walk from the family room couch to its food bowl in the kitchen. As a consequence the house dog is the most overfed and suffers from the greatest overweight problems of all the house-pets.
The dog that spends most of its daylight activities outdoors, but comes in at night, has a higher energy need than the pet kept indoors constantly. Not only does it get more exercise, but it requires extra energy to maintain its body temperature during cooler weather outdoors. Even with such additional requirements it is not uncommon to find indoor/outdoor pets that are fed too much and are borderline overweights.
The dog that stays outdoors all of the time is the pet least likely to develop obesity. As an outdoor dog it enjoys the same, or more exercise as the indoors/outdoors dog. In addition, outdoor dogs have a considerably increased need for energy to maintain body heat.
This need for extra energy for body heat becomes especially high at night and in colder weather. In fact, there are occasional instances where outdoor dogs, when improperly fed, begin to appear just like the undernourished farm hounds of a past era of dog feeding.
Calculation: The quantity of food a house dog needs is determined by the same things that determine the amount of food any other dog eat, which is its optimum body weight and the caloric density of the food it eats. The amount is calculated in the same manner as for other dogs. Determine the number of calories a dog needs daily to maintain its optimum weight. Then divide that number by the number of calories in a pound of food you are feeding. The results will be the quantity of food you should feed, measured in pounds.
How To Properly Bathe Your Dog
The rules on how often you should bathe your dog are different from one dog to the next. Various breeds as well as various types of coats determine how often the dog should be given a bath. For example, the Poodle should be bathed every four or six weeks.
On the other hand, the Pointer can go three or four months between baths. Other breeds which have harsh long coats, such as the Pomeranian, Samoyed, and the Norwegian Elkhound require less frequent bathing because it tends to soften the coat. However, dogs that are kept in the house most of the time have to be bathed more frequently to keep them clean.
Bathing the dog is important in order to keep the coat and skin clean and healthy. The coat should always be brushed thoroughly before the bath. This will help to remove all dead hair and all mats from the coats of long-haired dogs.
The next step is to prepare the materials you are going to use before the bath. The following is a list of supplies you will need:
1. Shampoo (regular or special shampoos for conditioning, color, coat, etc.)
2. Bristle Brush
3. Sponge
4. Rubber Tub Mat
5. Two Thick Bath-size Towels
6. Chain and Choke (to secure dog)
7. Spray Hose
8. Cream Rinse (long-haired breeds with the exception of the Poodle and Terriers).
Always remember to secure your dog safely in the tub. A chain and choke is necessary for this, giving the dog about a foot and a half of slack. This will make sure that the dog cannot jump from the tub and injure himself. A rubber tub mat is also a good safety precaution.
Using a spray hose, wet the coat thoroughly with warm water. Next, apply the shampoo to the dog’s coat with a sponge, paying special attention to the ears, rectum area, and pads of the feet. These three areas are usually neglected by most groomers when bathing the dog. A small bristle brush may be used to scrub the head, ears, pads of the feet, and other extremely dirty areas of the coat. When the coat is thoroughly soaped and scrubbed, rinse it with warm water.
When rinsing, place the thumb over the ear opening to keep water out of the ears. Also keep a hand over the eyes to prevent any soap from getting into them. Since every dog should have a double bath, repeat the soaping and rinsing process. On the last rinse be sure to get all of the soap out of the coat.
Gently squeeze the hair on the legs, tail, ears, and all parts of the dog’s body with your hands to remove excess water. You must first towel dry before using a dryer.
Categories:
Grooming Tags:
What You Need To Know In Training Your Puppy
It is important for your puppy to feel he is a valuable individual. Try to have your training sessions in a relatively quiet place. Because he is so playful, he can be easily distracted by other people and activities. If he is constantly being bombarded by other sights and sounds, it will be difficult for him to get the message from you that you enjoy being with him.
Use words:The only way he will learn to associate the command with the action is if you use the word every time you guide him into doing what you want. A puppy can learn a very large vocabulary with such words as “Outdoors,” “Bedtime,” “Go for a walk,” as well as the basic commands.
Reward your pup: To teach him anything, you must first have his attention and then you must reward him as soon as he has done what you ask. The reward can take three forms; a
tidbit, a pat, or your voice. Consider the use of tidbits a highly successful means of puppy training. By guiding his behavior with it, you can avoid pushing and pulling with your hands and all of the jerking and pulling on the leash.
A puppy learns much more quickly when he performs the activity himself rather than being pushed or pulled into doing it. Then, as he begins to understand what you mean by “Sit” or “Come” or whatever, you can use your hand or leash to perfect the performance, thereby keeping handling at a minimum. Timing is of the utmost importance when using tidbits in puppy training. Obviously, your puppy is not going to know what you mean by the different commands when you first begin to train him, and the only way he will learn that he is doing the right thing is when he receives the reward at the moment he does it.
An example in using tidbits is to teach the command “Sit.” If you have a puppy who prefers bouncing around and absolutely hates sitting, you may have to begin by rewarding a bending of the hind legs. If you were to wait until he sits all the way down with his bottom on the floor, you would never get the job done. After a few rewards for partial sitting, the puppy will suddenly sit all the way, at which time you will not only reward him but tell him how marvelous he is.
Another example of rewarding with tidbits is with the heeling exercise. This is the most difficult thing for most puppies to learn. Too often, it involves excessive jerking on the leash. The more a puppy is being pulled, the more he resists and pulls in the opposite direction. Their natural tendency is to run off and sniff around. Cheese tidbits is very effective in overcoming the problems of teaching a puppy to walk beside us. It works even better off-leash (but only for a minute at a time).
As you begin walking, the instant the puppy begins to look away from you, get his attention with your voice and give him a tidbit. This will keep him at your side for another few steps. Repeat this a few times during each session, reversing your direction and taking some turns. Then stop while you are both still performing well and give him lots of praise with your voice along with some pats.
Categories:
Training Tags:
Teaching your Pit Bull to sit and stay
Now that your Pit Bull has learned to follow the command “come,” he is ready for his next trick. Another very useful behavior that you can teach your dog is to learn how to “sit.” “Sit” is one of the simplest tricks to teach. Learning this behavior is vital because it is an effective way to control your dog and also help you set the foundation for other training to follow.
It is very easy to teach your Pit Bull how to “”sit.” Stand right in front of him while holding a treat slightly above his eye level. Say “sit” and then move the treat closer to him until it is just above his eyes. You may have to put your other hand on his rump to prevent him from jumping up.
If he takes a step back instead of sitting down, place his rear against a wall. When he begins to look up and bend his hind legs, say “good” and then give him the treat. Repeat this process again. Have him bend his legs more and more this time until he is in a full “sit” position before saying “good” and giving him the treat.
Once your Pit Bull knows how to “sit,” he then needs to learn how to remain in the sitting position for as long as necessary. The way to do this is to teach him to “stay,” which is another very useful command that you can teach your dog.
Dogs have a dangerous habit of running off through open doors, whether from the house or from a car. It is very important to teach your dog to sit and stay until you give him the signal that it is ok to get back up. Only then can he walk through the door or exit the car.
Get your dog to sit and then say “stay” in a calm and soothing voice. If he tries to get up or lie down, immediately gently place him back into position. Have him maintain the position for a few seconds and then give the release word “ok.” Do not forget to praise and give him his favorite treat for doing a great job.
Repeat the process again, gradually increasing the amount of time that he has to sit and stay. However, do not ask your Pit Bull puppy to stay longer than 30 seconds. The goal is to let your pet succeed, not push him to the limit. Remember to be patient and to increase time and distance in small increments.
Avoid staring into your dog’s eyes if you think that it will help him to focus his attention on you. Doing so only creates the opposite effect. Your dog will sense the staring as a threat and can be intimidating.
Find more great training tips and Pit Bull info with the NEW: Complete Guide to Owning and Raising Pit Bull Terriers: Pit Bulls Revealed. Pit Bulls Revealed provides an honest, no-holds-barred look into Pit Bull ownership. 
Discover fascinating facts about the history of the breed, learn which myths are outright lies, discover how to select the ultimate Pit Bull puppy breeder, and much more.
Pit Bulls Revealed is the “ultimate resource” for anyone who is serious about getting answers to all of their Pit Bull questions. As a bonus you get TWO FREE additional handbooks- Pit Bull Training (a great guide) and Pit Bull Snacks (lots of fantastic recipes your dog will love!)
.
Categories:
Training Tags:
Treating your dog for “whipworms”
When it comes to making sure that your loving dog is healthy, both inside and out, then it is important to understand how dangerous dog parasites can be. And in order to understand this topic of being a dog owner, then you must be educated in the many different types of parasites that are out there just waiting to use your dog as a host for its feeding.
Today’s article we are going to cover a particular parasite that you may not have heard of, but one that is definitely a danger to your pet dogs. They are called “whipworms”. Whipworms are such hearty organisms that they can survive outdoors for very long stretches at a time. The reason why they are called whipworms is because they actually resemble a whip in that they are thin on one end and thicker on the other end.
Like other internal worm feeders, they get into the dog’s body when the dog ingests the eggs or the immature form of the whipworm. The whipworm then reaches maturity as it moves through your dog’s digestive system.
The adult worms will fasten themselves and draw blood from the cecum, which is a pocket between the small and large intestines. The mature female lays her eggs inside of the host. The eggs are then excreted through the feces.
Typical symptoms that your dog may show signs of if being a host to whipworms include loose and bloody stool, a dull coat, severe weight loss, vomiting yellow-green, and anemia.
Treatment for your dog to get rid of whipworms should always start at your veterinarian’s office. Your veterinarian will be able to determine the presence of whipworms by examining your dog’s stool specimens. Of course several attempts may be necessary because whipworms are sometimes very difficult to detect.
Afterwards, your veterinarian will administer a potent deworming agent. Also, since you may be combating worms around the house then ask your vet for a product that will help you aid in these household whipworm problems
As a preventative measure against whipworms, if your dog is an outdoor dog, then be sure to keep him in dry quarters that are regularly exposed to the sun. The reason for this is because whipworms require moisture in order to survive.
Canine Intelligence
There are many theories about the intelligence of the dog. The majority of dog owners know that their dogs are very bright: these owners can tell any number of stories that demonstrate the animal’s high intelligence.
In addition to the clever ways in which dogs outwit their owners, canine intelligence shines when dogs are asked to perform the tasks for which they were bred. For instance, the Border Collie is exceptionally quick to learn how to herd a flock of sheep, and only risk appearing stupid when you ask him to scent out a bird.
The bird dog who finds the bird naturally, without training, is labeled extremely intelligent. Yet this same genius will look dumb, and probably get trampled, if allowed to mingle with a flock of sheep.
Motivation is a big part of intelligence. One dog owner scheduled an appointment to have her dog evaluated after a discussion with her friend. The dog owner and her friend were convinced that the dog had a learning disability because the friend’s Labrador Retriever could open doors with his nose and paw, whereas the other dog would just sit in front of the door and wait for someone to open it.
The idea never occurred to this person that the dog didn’t want to go through the door all that badly or that he was smart enough to wait for her to open it instead of expending energy.
Another client who owned and trained Border Collies labeled one of her dogs retarded because the dog did not appear to grasp the concept of retrieving as quickly as her other Border Collies. Once the training method was adapted for the dog’s particular temperament, which was different from that of the typical Border Collie, she learned and enjoyed retrieving.
This same dog would display aggression toward other dogs by growling and curling her lips to show her teeth. The trainers thought the owner was quite effective and consistent in correcting the lip curl until one of the trainers observed that when this “retarded” dog approached another canine, she quietly curled only one side of her mouth, the side the owner could not see.
Frequently, people believe that females are smarter than males. However, there is no evidence to date to support the theory of a significant difference in intelligence between the sexes. Those who claim there is a difference may be tainted by their prejudice toward or preference for one sex or the other. Intelligence is more apt to vary individually rather than by the sex of the animal.
Categories:
Behavior Tags:
Understanding Balanoposthitis In Your Older Dog
Certain disorders are rather common occurrences in many older dogs and are potentially life threatening. In the female dog, conditions such as mammary gland tumors and pyometra, as well as the less serious false pregnancy and mis-mating, can be prevented to varying degrees by ovariohysterectomy. If your mature dog has already had such surgery you have removed the sources of several major threats to her continuing good health.
Although castration of the male will similarly prevent at least two reproductive disorders related to aging, side effects are more extensive and such surgery is rarely recommended for preventive reasons. The treatment of existing reproductive disease may, however, require such an operation.
Balanoposthitis: This inflammation of the penis and prepuce (sheath) is seen with variable frequency in dogs of all ages, even young puppies, but is more common in aging males. Small amounts of yellow or grayish discharge at the opening of the prepuce are apparent although the dog’s licking at the area may clean most of it away.
In several cases, the amount of discharge is quite large and will be greenish and pus-like, often matting the surrounding abdominal hair in long-coated dogs. The surface of the penis and the lining of the prepuce develop multiple little bumps, called lymphoid follicles, and bacteria actively begin to grow in the secretions. Should your dog have this problem, you will often find some of the discharge on the various surfaces that he lies on for any length of time.
You can usually clear up mild cases yourself by gently flushing out the sheath twice daily with hydrogen peroxide solution for a week or ten days. Using a rubber human ear syringe to hold the peroxide, insert its tip into the sheath opening, at the same time pulling the sheath gently toward the syringe.
This will avoid the syringe tip touching the penis. Holding the sheath opening firmly around the syringe tip, slowly instill the peroxide until the prepuce distends slightly. Remove the syringe, keeping the prepuce opening closed, and gently massage the fluid back and forth within the sheath. Release the opening, let the fluid drain out, and carefully clean the surrounding area.
More severe cases should be treated by your veterinarian and may require the application of irritating medications to these delicate tissues. This would, of course, be done under anesthesia and probably followed with soothing antibiotic ointments which you would continue at home as instructed.
Your older dog may be recurrently bothered by this condition. Regular flushing with peroxide or the application of an antibiotic ointment or both, done once or twice weekly should keep the discharge under control and avoid the more serious problems.
For a limited time get these bonuses included FREE:
Plus the FREE 6 Day training course! Free! Click HERE for more information