1. Be fair with corrections. Make sure your dog understands what you want before you correct him for not doing it. And let the punishment fit the crime. A correction should not be a release of anger, a clearing out of pent-up feelings by unloading them on the apparent cause of the problem, your dog. Instead, a correction is another way to communicate with your dog, to foster in him a clear understanding of his place in your human pack.
As such, a proper correction is another way to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. At its mildest level, a correction is the absence of praise. Remember to always ask yourself if you're being fair before you give in to the knee-jerk reaction to leash-jerk.
2. Be positive. This tip refers to having the right attitude, of course, but it's more than that. Praise that's well timed and appropriate is essential to your dog's learning process. If all you ever do is tell your dog "no," your relationship isn't going to be a very good one. How would you like to work with a boss like that?
Praise is cheap and free - so use it, lots! Use praise when your dog tries to get it right. Use it more when your dog succeeds. Use it when your dog just pays attention to you, because that's the first step in the training. You don't have to be some gushing goof, but you do need to let your dog know when you're proud of her.
3. When training your dog, be on the same team. Don't think of training your dog as a you versus your dog endeavor. Think instead about the two of you being on the same team, albeit in different positions. Consider yourself the quarterback, if you like: You call the plays. Winning is a team effort.
Of course, your dog has to learn the plays first, and you're the one to teach him. And this relationship is still not an adversarial one. You show your dog the things he needs to learn, and you do so with love and respect, which your dog will return in kind.
To bring your dog onto your team and show him the plays you'll be calling, you need to spend time with him. Bring him into your life. Let him sleep in a crate in your bedroom, practice his "sits" in the kitchen. The more opportunities for interaction and practice you have, the faster and more reliably your dog performs.
The canine nose has something like twenty times as many primary receptor cells as the human nose. How all of this works to detect odors is one of the great scientific wonders of the world.
Studies in a number of species have found that different regions of the mucous lining within the nose have different chemical properties, more readily absorbing chemicals of one particular molecular shape or another, or preferentially absorbing in one region chemicals that are more water soluble and in another chemicals that are more fat soluble.
The ability of the nose to make precise chemical distinctions is truly extraordinary. Some pairs of chemicals that exist in nature are identical in every way - they are made up of exactly the same elements, joined together in exactly the same three-dimensional sequence - except that one is the three-dimensional mirror image of the other.
Yet such "stereoisomers" frequently have a dramatically different odor, indicating that the nose can sort them out by their complex shape alone. The molecule carvone, for example, has the odor of caraway in one of its stereoisomers, the odor of oil of spearmint in its mirror-image form.
Measurements of the acuity of the dog's nose suggest that the dog is many times more sensitive than man to the presence of minute quantities of odor molecules wafting in the air, but the data are all over the map.
This is probably in part because the threshold for detecting different chemicals no doubt varies dramatically according to the particular chemical involved. Some comparative studies have found that dogs can detect certain organic chemicals at concentrations a hundred times less than people are able to; for other compounds the dog's edge may be a factor of a million or more.
In police and security work, dogs can detect the odor from natural gas leaks, concealed narcotics, explosives, and currency, all at levels well below the threshold at which humans are aware of the odor.
In controlled studies dogs could detect human scent on a glass slide that had been lightly fingerprinted and then left outdoors for as much as two weeks, or indoors for as much as a month. They could pick which of six identical steel tubes had been held in the hands of a person for no more than five seconds. They could distinguish between T-shirts worn by two identical twins who ate different foods, or by two nonidentical twins who lived in exactly the same environment and ate exactly the same foods.
More than such a remarkable sensitivity to trace odors, it is the ability to pick out particular odors of interest from a welter of competing smells and to match and distinguish them that is the dog's most impressive olfactory feat. This ability is surely a reflection of the dog's superior olfactory computing powers, for it requires not just smelling but analyzing.
Dogs have no innate interest in the smell of people, narcotics, or hundred-dollar bills; but if trained repeatedly to focus on certain categories of smells, they can perform mind-boggling feats of cross-matching.
History and origin: The Briard has been known since the 12th century and comes from the Brie area of France, where the dog is also known as the “Berger de Brie” or “Chien de Brie.” He was first used to guard herds against wolves and poachers. This breed was bred with good size and a protective weather-proof coat.
Description: The Briard stands 22 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 55 and 90 pounds. He has a large, strong, lanky body and a shedding coat that is long and straight or slightly wavy, with a finer undercoat.
The head is well coated, with a beard, long, arched, expressive eyebrows, and cropped or uncropped ears. The eyes are almost covered with hair. This breed requires daily brushing and combing to prevent mats. A shorter clip will reduce the maintenance requirements. The color may be black, gray, or tawny or a combination of two of these colors.
About the breed: The Briard is a great family pet, a farm worker, a good guard dog, and a successful show dog. He is loyal, easy to train, and has a gentle nature. This active, lively, independent breed is affectionate with his family and reserved with strangers.
Alert and territorial, he may be initially resistant to training. A firm, consistent technique combined with early socialization will be needed to reduce pushy, suspicious behavior. Giving this breed a job such as herding, competition obedience, or agility work will help focus his energy and increase his confidence.
The Briard may chase cars, bikes, and joggers and may not tolerate the hectic activity of young children, perhaps nipping at them in an effort to herd them. Roughhousing and chasing should not be allowed. This breed can also be dog-aggressive. The Briard may be susceptible to hip dysplasia and eye problems.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Briard is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.
Ideal home: The Briard needs a house with a fenced yard. The owner of a Briard should be an active, firm leader, who desires an athletic, lively, intelligent breed. Daily exercise is mandatory; competition obedience or herding would help focus this breed and build his confidence.
Sedentary people should avoid this breed. Spoilers and nervous types may encourage a pushy, nippy, timid attitude. Older children who will not roughhouse or play chase games are okay. The elderly and the disabled may have trouble controlling this active breed. The Briard does better in a dry climate; wet environments tend to cause the coat to become smelly and matted.
Consistency & Persistence Pays Off When Training Your Dog
If the rules change from day to day, the dog becomes confused. He needs to know how to consistently earn reward and avoid punishment or he will give up responding. The good trainer is consistent and always uses the same command for the same behavior. Most dog owners teach the dog that the command "down" means to be in a prone position.
Unfortunately, many dog owners use the same command to mean, lie down, remove thyself from the couch or bed, or stop jumping on people. When a command has many different meanings, the word ceases to have an important message.
Give each behavior its own command. The command "off" can be used to mean paws on the floor, and "down" may remain to define the prone position. After you decide on consistent commands, the next step is to be persistent in using them. Dogs are naturally good at persistent behavior, and even better if rewarded for it.
Many a dog owner has given up trying to correct the dog that barks all day or jumps on people. Dog owners drop out of obedience classes all the time because they are worn down by their dogs' seemingly persistent behaviors, and they give up trying to teach their dogs new behaviors. The key is that the owners gave up, and the dogs learned that persistence pays off.
When an owner gives in, the dog's persistent behavior is strengthened and reinforced. Any determined dog owner can wear the dog down. Therefore, it is extremely important that you be more persistent than the dog about continuing the training process until the dog performs the desired behavior.
The dog must learn that the energy he spends engaging in undesirable behavior is not worth the effort, because you will persist. If you correct him for jumping up the first four times and don't correct him for the fifth jump up you simply teach him to jump up five times for the payoff.
Similarly, if you correct the dog for barking at the moon sometimes and not at other times, you teach him that sometimes barking is acceptable and sometimes it is not. The dog will continue to bark to determine when barking is acceptable and when it is not acceptable.
Consequently, correcting barking sometimes actually encourages even more barking. If you don't correct the dog for barking in the backyard because you are not at home, he will learn that barking is acceptable when you're away.
If you sneak out of the house so as not to cue him that it is acceptable to bark, he only needs to bark twice with no correction to figure out that you are not at home. A behavior will be extinguished or changed only if you persist in correcting the dog every time he misbehaves.
Eggs: Eggs for feeding dogs can be bought by the dozen in the grocery store, by the hundreds from hatcheries or by the thousands from egg ranches.
Regardless of how many or where they are obtained, an egg should never be fed to a dog raw. Raw egg whites react with the vitamin, biotin, and prevent a dog from using it. In fact, feeding raw egg whites is the exact way scientists produce experimental biotin deficiency in a laboratory.
Milk: Much controversy has raged over feeding milk to dogs. Milk has been accessed of causing diarrhea and other digestive upsets. While it may produce these problems in large amounts, if milk is kept to about two ounces of fluid milk or two tablespoons of dry milk per pound of food, few problems will be encountered.
The value of the milk, when fed in proper amounts, exceeds the risk of upset. Milk supplies calcium and phosphorus in the proper ratio and amounts, a host of vitamins, and also a protein which approaches the value of whole egg.
Cottage cheese: Cottage cheese is little more than the major protein fraction of milk casein. It does not have the same value as the protein of whole milk because the lactoalbumin, normally present in whole milk, has been washed away in the whey. The value of the protein in cottage cheese compares favorably with that of horse meat.
Cottage cheese offers the dog feeder an inexpensive, readily available source of quality protein for his dog.
Cheese: Another dairy product made from casein is cheese. Cheese, unlike cottage cheese, also contains a considerable amount of fat. The fat makes cheese a valuable source of energy as well as of protein. Because they are made as human foods, and are sold in competition with other human foods, cheeses are among the more expensive protein sources for feeding dogs. For dog feeders who wish to spend the extra money, cheese is a worthwhile consideration.
Fish: Fish is not commonly used in dietary formulations for dogs, but there is no logical reason to eliminate it from consideration as a protein source for a dog. Indeed, fish protein is one of the better proteins, for the money, that a dog feeder can use. Fish, too, should always be cooked before being fed.
In this case the heat destroys a chemical found in many fish that will destroy vitamin B1 (thiamine) if left unchanged.
Helping A Battered Dog Gain Confidence By Using Nonphysical Methods
A dog that has been over-punished lacks self-confidence. Therefore, such dogs should be allowed to succeed. This is fortunately a simple process with dogs. They are dramatically quick to learn from people when taught by nonphysical methods. Even a simple 3-part exercise, performed daily, can bring about a behavior change in a few days.
All that is needed is to crouch down, say "Rover, come," and heartily praise when it responds, even if it only looks at the owner. If the pet urinates on the way, the praise must be continued. The wetting usually disappears as confidence improves. When the dog comes all the way, it should be petted, preferably on the throat and chest to eliminate fear responses that may be caused by hands over or on top of its head. Most shy dogs usually come readily to a crouching figure.
The "Sit" command is simple, once the pet comes dependably. A hand is held up over the dog's rump as the words "Rover, sit" are spoken. The dog usually looks upward, and should be praised by happily saying "Good, sit," but without bending down or petting. If this is patiently repeated a few times, most dogs will sit down.
The spoken praise should be followed by petting. It is important not to bend over from the waist to pet shy dogs, as this movement often signals possible punishment. Crouching avoids bending over, and is friendly and reassuring. Pushing down on its rump, holding, or otherwise manipulating the pet must be avoided.
Physical force is at the root of most submissive behavior and interferes with effective learning.
The second part of therapy requires that owners avoid punishing the pet. If other behavior problems exist, these must be resolved using nonphysical methods and as light as possible. Self-control is a major challenge to most dog owners; however, after they see the progress usually achieved in a few days, their feelings that the pet "needs to be told it has done wrong" usually crop up.
Any backsliding on the owner's part is quickly reflected by regression in the dog. This feedback provides an effective control mechanism to which most owners are highly sensitive.
A third step in correction is used for dogs that respond submissively to persons outside the family. If a few friends are gathered to reinforce the owner's teachings, the dog usually responds satisfactorily. Correction in most cases requires only a few minutes on 2 or 3 occasions.
Older dogs with a persistent problem may require longer training periods. This approach to correct overly submissive behavior in shy dogs assumes the pet is healthy, so that no possible organic influence interferes with the learning capabilities of the animal. Total rehabilitation can be expected in 6 weeks when the process is carried out daily.
Before choosing a particular training method, carefully examine the technique to ensure that it will communicate proper associations. Certain methods may not communicate what you intend. A dog-aggressive Akita was enrolled in a training program that his owner thought was reputable.
The trainer convinced the owner that the only way to break the Akita of aggression toward other dogs was to let a more dominant dog put him in his place. The trainer's dog displayed dominance toward other dogs, so she placed him in a room with the Akita and left the two dogs to work things out.
When the trainer heard a window crashing, she opened the door to find that her dog was injured, and the Akita had been richly rewarded for his aggressive behavior with a nice victory under his collar.
If this method does not make sense to you, it probably won't make sense to the dog, either. One trainer sent around a flyer giving free advice to the general public on how to stop dogs from digging. The trainer suggested filling the newly dug hole with water and taking the dog over to the hole by the scruff of the neck to dunk his head in the water filled-hole.
The next sentence on this flyer cautioned the owner that the dunking probably would not stop the dog from digging; instead, forcing the dog down to the water by the scruff of the neck was a demonstration of dominance, a root cure-all for problem behavior. The trainer thought through the method far enough to figure out that the water would have no effect on future digging.
Unfortunately, he did not explain that the dog would learn to mistrust his owner for trying to drown him. Shortly after this flyer was distributed, another trainer was indicted for animal abuse for employing this very correction technique.
Occasionally, even thinking through a method does not result in a clear understanding of how it works. One day a fellow drove up to class in a pickup with his dog in the back. The dog trainer explained to him that it was very dangerous to have the dog in the back of an open pickup.
He went through the normal lecture on how the dog's nose and eyes could be damaged from debris in the air, the danger of the dog being thrown out of the truck in an accident, etc. The fellow proudly said, "I fixed the dog from jumping out of the truck. He was jumping out and I would throw him back in.
We did this for five or six times when I finally got really mad and threw him in the truck for the seventh time and stuffed a piece of horse manure in his mouth for good measure. After that the dog never jumped out again, and the next time he does something bad, I am going to use that manure trick again."
It was really hard to determine if the dog stopped jumping out of the truck because he got tired of being thrown back in, or if he was grateful for the gourmet horse manure treat. If you are not sure about exactly how or why a method works, it is probably best to avoid the technique altogether.
Even the most popular methods use techniques that may not be suited for every breed or temperament of dog. A trainer who evaluates each method based on the efficacy of the associations and motivators will be better equipped to match the appropriate obedience method with the dog's individual temperament.
Behavioral Problems Associated With Parasitic Disease
Some of the problem behaviors in dogs are a result of an infection from parasite. These include internal parasites such as roundworm and tapeworm, flea infestation, ear mites, and Hypermetria.
Many dog owners are not aware that most parasite infection such as roundworm infestation is a condition that requires immediate veterinary attention. The fact is that it is important for all puppies to be dewormed as well as vaccinated against distemper and hepatitis.
Most problems related to internal parasitism involve owners who do not know about the adverse effects of digestive malfunction, but still expect a young dog to control his loose stools, be able to housetrain successfully, and learn all the more complicated lessons of being an ideal household pet.
When the puppy does not respond well to the training, the owner sometimes reacts by isolating, punishing or rejecting the pet socially. The resulting confusion and mismanagement of the pet often produce a wide spectrum of behavioral maladjustments.
The following problems are often shown in dogs with internal parasites: Chewing; Digging; Barking; Whining; Unruliness (due to being isolated as punishment); and Stool eating which is possibly due to a fecal fixation resulting from excessive punishment associated with stools.
Flea infestation has led to rejection by some dog owners. Most of them will only try to get rid of fleas on the dog. They buy a flea collar or flea spray, but usually do nothing about the fleas infesting the dog's regular sleeping and resting areas.
The result of this is that the dog continues to be infested and is eventually moved to the yard. The problems associated with such social isolation then may evolve.
Ear mite infestation led to isolation-based problems involving destructive chewing. Often, the dog’s constant scratching drives his owner crazy and will eventually result from the dog being shut away.
Some dog owners neglect the rather obvious ear odor commonly associated with ear mites, and refuse to handle the behavioral problem until the ear problem clears up. Consult your vet when you notice a foul odor coming from your dog’s ear. Your vet will prescribe treatment for the scratching problem which in turn will lead to subsequent behavioral corrections.
It is amazing that most animals displaying signs of hypermetria had histories of heavy roundworm or tapeworm infections as puppies. In cases of Hypermetria, the dogs tend to bump into objects, usually submerge their noses when drinking, and display an exaggerated fore-throw of the front limbs when walking.
Some cases of dogs suffering from this condition are abnormally hostile and seemed to be devoid of long-term memory. These dogs had to be re-taught simple lessons every day.
As your dog grows older, the muscles of the colon and rectum may lose some of their ability to propel and expel feces adequately during a bowel movement. Reduction in stomach and intestinal digestive secretions can produce a bulkier, firmer stool as can diets very high in dry food content if there is insufficient water intake. Your dog will squat and strain to force the fecal mass slowly out. She may cry from the discomfort.
Prostatic disease can mechanically cause constipation as the prostate gland enlarges and presses up against the floor of the rectum. Similarly, tumors in the rectum or on the anus can interfere with the passage of feces.
Any dog may have an isolated difficult bowel movement on occasion. This should be no cause for alarm if he is otherwise in good health and there is no bleeding or excessive pain.
Repeated bouts of constipation can slowly stretch the rectal muscles, causing permanent dilatation and resulting in chronic constipation. Once this occurs, your dog will need frequent enemas as well as fecal softeners to help him eliminate.
The increased time the stool remains in the colon and rectum will allow bacteria that normally live there to act on the stool, causing putrefaction and excessive gas production.
Fortunately, the aging dog has relatively few disorders of the brain and spinal cord associated with the process of growing old. Arteriosclerosis, that bane of human aging and a primary cause of senility, is quite rare in dogs. Hence it is unusual indeed to meet a truly senile dog.
Cerebral hemorrhage, also called apoplexy or stroke, is likewise a very infrequent occurrence in the canine. Rabies is caused by a virus which is attracted specifically to nerve tissue and is transmitted by the bite of a rabid animal. However, there have also been rare reports in recent years of airborne transmission.
It has been traditionally believed for centuries that once symptoms of rabies develop, death is inescapable, and because of the hazard to other animals and people, such dogs are euthanized if they have not yet bitten anyone.
Recent reports of two human rabies cases which were treated successfully and survived the development of rabid symptoms, if confirmed, may possibly alter the present grim outlook for rabid dogs. With the extremely effective and safe vaccines available today to protect your aging dog, however, there is no excuse for you to ever have to worry about this disease.
The dog Basenji goes by many names, some of which include Belgian Congo Dog, Bongo Terrier, Congo Bush Dog, Zande Dog, and Congo Terrier. What makes this breed particularly special is that he is the only breed who has no bark. But other than the absence of bark, this breed will whine and growl like other dogs, and can express his feelings with a unique yodel or chortle sound. The Basenji does have a vocal cord. However, it is believed that the past thousands of years in training to hunt game silently may explain his characteristic quietness. Nevertheless, this breed is recognized for its gentle nature and love of children. He is very inquisitive, mischievous, does not have any doggie smell, and adaptable to most climates. He can be wary around strangers and does not like the rain. He has a number of appealing features, including his curling tail, high set and lying over to one side of the back, his wrinkled forehead that gives him a worried-like look, and his habit of washing with his paw similar to a cat.
Size: The ideal height for the male Basenji is 17in at the shoulder while the ideal height for the female Basenji is 16in. The ideal weight is 24lb for the male and 21lb for the female.
History and origin: This type of breed has been depicted in many carvings in the tombs of the Pharaohs. It is said that these dogs were brought as valuable presents by travelers from the lower reaches of the Nile. The breed almost disappeared from public sight during the ancient Egyptian times until the middle of 19th century, when the Basenji was again discovered by explorers in the Congo and Southern Sudan.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for Basenji is about 11/2-2 cans of quality dog food (13.3oz size) with equivalent amount of biscuit or 3 cupfuls of dry food. This breed will also enjoy an occasional serving of green vegetables. In addition, the Basenji is a grass eater and should have plenty of access to fresh grass.
Exercise: This breed is a terrific hunter and has a tendency to put on extra weight unless he gets plenty of exercise. He is tireless, fleet-footed, and loves to take regular walks and runs. He is an indoor dog that should not be put in an outside kennel. He would love to just relax next to you and lie down in a corner. He is a great apartment dog as long as he is given enough exercise.
Grooming: A hound glove is recommended to keep his coat in great condition.
Your dog’s skin is one of his most sensitive and easily damaged organs. If he develops a skin problem such as an allergy or a negative reaction to grooming products, his skin can initiate a cycle of other conditions that can be difficult to cure. Some breeds in particular have very sensitive skin that would require special care and handling. For example, if your dog has a white or light-colored coat and pink skin, he may be more sensitive to just about everything, from dry air and sun, to irritation from grooming products. In addition, dogs with short coats are more likely to have reactions to certain products. Other examples of skin disorders that can result from improper grooming are as follows:
Hot Spots: Hot spots are moist, hot wound-like areas that develop rapidly and can be very painful. This type of skin problem may be caused by a variety of triggers such as fleas, allergies, irritants, infections, or lack of proper grooming. Hot spots build up and grow because the dog compulsively licks and scratches at the itchy, painful spots, making it increasingly worse until it becomes infected. Vets have to treat hot spots by clipping hair away to disinfect and treat the area. The dog will probably be treated for itching and may have to wear an "Elizabethan collar'' in order to prevent the hot spots from becoming irritated while it heals.
Product Reactions: Some breeds are sensitive to certain products like shampoos, conditioners, coat sprays, or flea or tick control. If your dog has an inexplicable skin reaction, check if you have recently changed grooming products or food. If your dog has sensitive skin, you may want to try mild, hypoallergenic, and/or natural products containing skin-soothing ingredients. If you are not sure of which product to get, ask a vet for recommendation.
Skin Diseases: Dogs can develop many different skin diseases, some inherited, some caused by environmental factors. Your vet should always address skin diseases in your dog and can advise you how to properly groom them. Whether relatively minor but inconvenient, such as greasy, scaly skin resulting from overactive sebaceous glands (called oily seborrhea), something cosmetic, like a disease that causes hair loss (like color mutant alopecia), or something potentially life-threatening, like skin cancer, skin disease in dogs must be treated immediately.
Skin Infections: Skin infections can be caused by bacteria introduced into a wound, either by unsanitary conditions, or by poor grooming. From impetigo, which is common in puppies, skin-fold pyoderma which is common in loose-skinned breeds like Chinese Sharpei, to abscesses of uncertain origin, skin infections should be treated with antibiotics, which your vet can prescribe. Never groom over an infected area. Hair should be cut or carefully clipped from the area in order for the infection can heal.
The Chihuahua is considered to be the world’s tiniest dog, weighing from 2 to 6 pounds. He is perceptive, intelligent, intensely loyal and passionate, very affordable to keep, and extremely protective of his house - which makes him an excellent miniature guard dog. And because he is a tiny dog, he easily gets the approval of many landlords; therefore, he is the ideal dog to own for those who live in apartments and small houses.
The adult Chihuahua normally takes a few weeks before he shows his true personality, which keeps his owner under careful observation. Some Chihuahuas give their owners an impression that they are shy, although what they are actually doing is sizing up their owner to see which one of them is to be the leader in the home.
Brief history: The Chihuahua got its name from the state of Chihuahua in Mexico where he is believed to be the sacred dog of the Incas. There is a theory that Chihuahuas were once fierce little dogs that lived in holes in the ground, which could well account for their inclination to huddle together in every warm nook and cranny.
Feeding: Chihuahuas only need a small portion of food in each meal. The requirement of a very small Chihuahua should be 2-3oz of cooked minced beef of a high-quality brand of dog food, along with a handful of puppy biscuits. These dogs do best on 2 or 3 small meals rather than 1 large daily feeding. Bigger sizes Chihuahuas are able to eat up to ½ can (13.3oz size) of high-quality dog food or the equivalent portion of home-made dog food, and a handful of biscuits.
Exercise requirement: Contrary to what many people believe, the Chihuahua is ready and able to walk as far as most owners would wish, though he will not object to an occasional ride in a shopping cart either. He gets most of his needed exercise from running around inside the house as he is playing. The fact that he only requires moderate exercise makes this dog a great choice of pet for the elderly.
Grooming: The Chihuahua should be groomed using a soft brush. A rub down with a glove or wet towel makes his coat shine. His nail needs to be trimmed regularly and the ears need to be kept clean.
Health care: This dog is not as fragile as one might think, but he does not like the cold and appreciates a thick covering to keep him warm outdoors. He is absolutely not designed for kennel living. Be careful with his molera, a small opening on top of the skull. His molera, unlike that of the human baby, may never fill in and a blow on the head could be fatal. They also have the tendency to shiver.
The Border Terrier is the smallest of all the working terriers. He has a compact, sturdy body, medium-boned, and well put together. His otter-like head sets him apart from the other terriers. His eyes have been described as “full of fire and intelligence.” He has long legs that enable him to keep up with dogs of much larger size. Perhaps the most personable of the terriers, this plain little brown dog is full of charm and life, which makes him a wonderful family dog.
He is a playful dog with lots of energy. He loves children and will play tirelessly with them. However, young children need to be instructed not to roughhouse with the dog. He is hardy, reliable, a very active breed with tenacity and great drive. He seems to have a greater desire to please than other breeds in his group. This lovable breed usually shows aggression only if spoiled. He can be dog-aggressive if not socialized early. Because of his terrier instinct, he has a high prey drive toward small animals.
Training should be patient and consistent but not overbearing, as this breed have a sensitive side to him. The Border Terrier loves to dig and should not be left alone in the yard for long periods of time. Overbearing owners may cause this breed to worry and exhibit fear-aggression.
Size: The Border Terrier stands 9-11in at the shoulder and weighs between 11 and 15lb.
History and origin: The Border Terrier is one of the oldest terriers that were used to hunt fox and badger. He is a spunky, athletic dog bred to have endless stamina and determination. He is a natural breed that evolved in the border counties of England and Scotland in the middle of the 19th century when it was a common practice to produce a terrier tailor-made for the job it would perform. The Border Terrier still works with hounds and has been less changed to meet the standards of the show ring. The breed was recognized by the British Kennel Club in 1920.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is ½ - 1 can of high-quality meat product (13.3oz size) with biscuit added in same amount or 1 ½ cups of a complete dry food. Increase the amount of food for a very active terrier.
Exercise: An ideal surrounding for this breed is a fenced-in yard with plenty of space for him to run around. However, the Border Terrier can make a good apartment dog as long as he is getting plenty of exercise.
Grooming: This breed has a short, weather resistant coat that is coarse and wiry with minimal shedding and requires minimum grooming. Show dogs should be hand-stripped to tidy up for the show ring. Hand-stripping is a lengthy plucking method that preserves the texture and luster of the coat.
