A pretty smile may not be on your dog's priority list, but having sound teeth to chew his food certainly is. Your veterinarian will examine your dog's teeth as part of his annual checkup, but don't wait until a yearly exam to help prevent your dog from developing dental disease. Tartar and plaque can form on your dog's teeth as they can on your own, and tooth loss and gum disease can just as easily develop.
Some dental problems may be a result of genetic manipulation and breeding. Some miniature dogs, for example, may have tooth problems from birth due to having the same number of teeth as a large dog being crammed into their smaller jaws. Other dogs develop dental problems as they age. Whatever the cause, help your dog in the dental department by cleaning his teeth twice weekly and following some of these suggestions.
1. Accustom your dog to having his teeth cleaned early in life. Make the session a game and reward your dog with a tartar-control treat.
2. Two types of teeth-cleaning products exist that fit over the pet owner's fingertips. One is a rubber device a little larger than a thimble with tiny rubber spikes on it. The other has an actual brush on it so that you can brush your dog's teeth, using only tooth- paste that is intended for dogs. The brush can be sterilized in a microwave oven after each use.
3. If you prefer to use an actual brush, use a soft toothbrush meant for a baby.
4. If your dog has a very small mouth, use a human eyebrow brush.
5. Try a little baking soda instead of pet toothpaste to clean your dog's teeth. Caution: Human toothpaste is intended to be spit out and will make your dog sick if he swallows it.
6. An alternative way to clean your dog's teeth is to rub them several times a week with a dampened terrycloth washcloth. To make it more enjoyable for your dog, rub a little garlic on the cloth.
7. If your dog runs in the other direction when he sees you whip out the toothbrush and paste, offer him treats or food products that are designed to remove plaque and prevent the buildup of tartar. Give him some hard, dry, crunchy food as a part of his normal diet to help clean plaque deposits. Manufacturers have developed foods and treats to reduce the amount of tartar and plaque. Most are available in grocery stores and supermarkets.
8. Discuss with your veterinarian having your dog's teeth cleaned professionally. Teeth cleaning requires that your dog be anesthetized.
9. If your dog has bad breath, it could signal the sign of disease. Have your dog checked by a veterinarian. To help reduce bad doggie breath, purchase products intended to make your dog's breath smell better. They are available at pet stores.
10. As an alternative way to improve your dog's breath, mix three parts water to one part non mint liquid chlorophyl (available in health food stores) in a medicine bottle. Liquid chlorophyl is a natural deodorant. Give your dog one dropper full daily to fight bad breath from the inside.
Most shelter dogs come with some ready-made behavior problems, and those that don't will usually develop a few out of sheer ingenuity. And the stress of adapting to a new living situation and a new family is especially likely to bring out new bad habits or exacerbate old ones.
Don't panic, and don't take it personally; your dog isn't doing anything unusual, incurable, or ungrateful. She's not being "bad" out of spite, so don't correct her in spite; your goal is to stop her improper behavior calmly and authoritatively, not to get revenge. Remember, she may never have had to abide by anyone's rules before, but that doesn't mean she can't learn yours.
We've listed a few of the more common doggie problems here, but a few overriding principles apply to all of them:
1. Don't ask for trouble. If you know your dog likes to chew your socks or dig in your plants, don't leave your socks and plants where she can reach them just yet. If she only causes trouble when she's left unsupervised, don't leave her unsupervised until she's trustworthy. In other words, give her as few chances as possible to be bad during these early weeks. But don't go overboard and lock her in her crate all day either; that's not fair to her, and besides, she'll never learn if she's never allowed to make mistakes.
2. Be consistent at all costs. Set rules, and stick to them. Correct your dog every time she errs, not just when it's convenient (and not just when you happen to catch her - which means you need to oversee her activities constantly at the beginning). And hold a family meeting to make sure that everyone in the household is correcting the same problems in the same way; don't let anybody try to play the "good cop" by being soft on your pup's uncouth behaviors. That won't earn anybody points; it will just result in a very confused and unmannered dog.
3. Catch her in the act, or don't catch her at all. Just as in housebreaking, you have to correct a mistake as it's happening, not a minute or an hour later. You can scold your dog if you find her chewing up your favorite book, but not if you find your favorite book chewed up on the floor and no dog in sight. If you wait too long to make the correction, she'll have many happy memories of eating your book and no idea that your anger is in any way related to it. Guess what that means? Yep. Supervision.
Entrapment isn't illegal in dog training. Suppose you're having trouble catching your dog in the act of stealing food from your counters. Why not set her up? Leave some irresistible tidbit where she can see it, and be ready to correct her with your shake can or spray bottle and your sharp voice when she goes for the goods. Cheating? Maybe - but it works. Don't forget to tell her when she's good. You don't want to be a naysayer all the time; if you've told her she's naughty for pouncing on your house plants, then tell her she's terrific when you see her resisting the urge to do so.
1. Sometimes getting a job done is as simple as having the right tools, and bathing your dog is no exception. An indoor pet spray that attaches to your sink faucet or shower head makes bathing your dog easier to manage. The spray is gentle enough for a small dog.
2. If you must bathe your dog indoors, getting him into the tub may be a job in itself, let alone bathing him once he's there. To help in the effort, purchase a dog bath helper that has a mini lead attached to a suction cup that sticks to the bottom or side of the tub. The suction cup can be easily removed once your dog is squeaky clean.
3. When rinsing the soap from your dog's coat, use a one part vinegar to four parts water solution to leave his coat shiny and clean.
4. If your dog just doesn't like the water, use a waterless shampoo that must be applied then lathered into his coat until a foam appears. Brush and towel-dry with a blow-dryer.
5. If you prefer, give your dog a dry bath to remove any odors when it's too cold to bathe him. Rub some baking soda into your dog's coat, gently massage it in, then brush it out.
6. To help give a small dog a bath, place a small window screen across the sink in which you want to bathe him. The screen will give your dog something to stand on, and, because the bath and rinse water flow beneath it, will prevent him from having to stand in water.
7. If you want to give your dog some extra help in the self-cleaning department but don't want to stress him by subjecting him to a bath, use pet cleansing wipes to remove dander and saliva from his coat. The product, made from all-natural ingredients, leaves your dog's coat clean and healthy looking.
8. If your dog comes into contact with chewing gum, remove it by rubbing an ice cube on the gum until it hardens and can be pulled out, then wash the area thoroughly.
9. If your dog walks on tar, remove it by rubbing butter or margarine on the tarred area until the tar softens and can be pulled off. Repeat if necessary, then bathe your dog's feet.
10. If your dog rubs against oil-based paint, wipe it off immediately with a dry cloth, then bathe him. If the paint has dried and hardened, cut it out, then bathe your dog.
11. If your dog doesn't like the sound of spray conditioner after his bath, spray the conditioner on a brush, then run the brush through his hair.
Americans spend more than 23 billion dollars annually on pet food, products, services, and veterinary care. There probably are times when you feel like you're financing the pet industry yourself. Although you won't want to skimp on your dog's health or nutritional needs, there are some ways to save money on his care. Whether you have one dog or a dozen, the following techniques will help your pet dollars stretch a little further.
1. One of the nice features of dog shows - besides seeing so many beautiful animals - is the plethora of vendors who set up shop to sell their wares to those who enter and attend the show. The products are often cheaper than products you find in a pet store, so relax and enjoy the show and stock up on pet supplies to save some money.
2. Clip and use store coupons on food and dog items. If you have more coupons than you can use, place extras in the pet aisles of your grocery store or donate them to a local shelter or animal organization.
3. Watch ads in your local newspapers for sales at local pet stores and pet warehouses. You may find buy-one-and-get-one free promotions or even obtain premium food and products at minimal costs.
4. Buy food in larger sizes that are cheaper on an ounce-by-ounce basis.
5. Shop at yard sales and flea markets to find items that your dog can use. You may be lucky enough to find inexpensive carriers, beds, bowls, toys, and other items. Be sure to clean them thoroughly before use.
6. Take advantage of manufacturers' promotional sales. These often come with added pet products for minimal costs. Although some promotions require you to send away for the products, the cost of postage is less than the cost of the product if you had to buy it.
7. Shop at flea markets for old wooden shipping crates. Line them with blankets for a comfy sleeping spot. And while you're there, buy old quilts or blankets for your dog's bedding. Again, wash them thoroughly before use.
8. Purchase dog beds that have washable covers to prevent replacing the beds as often.
9. Save your old towels and blankets for your dog to sleep on.
10. Fill an old pillowcase with a soft piece of foam rubber. Sew the end shut. You will have a comfortable, washable dog bed, and your dog will appreciate having a bed made from something that is yours.
Pet supply stores sell an enormous variety of toys; rubber tug-toys, pull ropes, and squeaky cubes, to name just a few. These high-end gizmos may catch people's eyes, but they often leave dogs yawning. As any child who has turned a stick into a spaceship can attest, the best toys are usually the simplest. And nothing is simpler than a ball.
Balls are so attractive, in fact, that larceny is common. Dogs in parks have been known to stake out the tennis courts, waiting for an errant ball to fly over. Little League games have been interrupted by dogs running into the outfield to grab slow grounders. And more than a few children have gone to bed crying because family dogs have shredded - or at least slobbered on - their favorite balls.
Dogs Were Born To Chase
Wild dogs and their ancestors (the wolves) weren't stealthy, silent hunters the way cats are. They had to chase their dinner. The fastest, most-eager runners were the ones who got the most to eat, and they lived long enough to have plenty of puppies. Multiply this by a few thousand generations, and the result is an entire species with an instinct to run and chase.
Dogs certainly don't confuse a baseball in the yard with a running rabbit. But the love of chasing has been deeply bred into them. What they once did for business, they now do for fun. Chasing is just one reason dogs love balls. Catching is the other. Many dogs have been bred to hold things in their mouths. A ball isn't as exciting as a downed duck, but the sensation of holding something is probably very satisfying.
Plus, dogs have the opportunity to carry balls back to their owners, and this makes them feel as though they're fulfilling their life's mission. It's precisely what their parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents did, and they're carrying on the tradition. One of the things that makes dogs great pets is that they're so adaptable. They're born with a drive to chase prey. When they chase balls, they're translating that drive into a game instead.
Dogs prefer tennis balls. There's something about these colorful, fuzzy globes that dogs find strangely intoxicating. This is partly because of the size. Tennis balls are small enough for most dogs to hold comfortably, and large enough so they don't slip down their throats, explains.
More important, tennis balls have a soft, spongy surface, which is perfect for picking up and retaining scents. They get a very personal scent from the dog's mouth as well. They can smell that it's their ball. Best of all, tennis balls have a springy texture that dogs adore. When they chew, the balls squish down, then pop right back. That bit of compression is a great workout for their jaws. Some dogs feel lost when they don't have a tennis ball to chew.
Identifying The Level Of Dog Snapping Within A Family Pet
If you have a dog that has a bad habit of snapping at people, especially children, then you should first understand what this behavior means and why your dog may be doing it. Snapping is usually thought of as being a signal that dogs use to drive other dogs or people away, without biting them or inflicting serious injury. Often considered an expression of irritability, snapping is also a form of communication that females use to keep their puppies from pestering them.
It is natural to expect dogs to use snapping as a form of communication with people. Dogs will usually not snap at adults to, whom they are subordinate. And with adults who are snapped at, it is usually only their hands that are at risk. With children, however, snapping can be dangerous, because a child's face is often level with the dog's head.
Centuries of selective breeding have attenuated this natural canine trait until dogs of some breeds now seem to be almost incapable of snapping, regardless of how much they are pestered. Yet however hard we try to train young children not to abuse or pester a dog until it becomes irritable, we cannot count on a child to always following instructions. Families with a young child at risk who still find themselves wanting a dog are therefore advised to select a breed that ranks low on snapping behavior.
Regarding a dog's tendency to snap at children, the experts say: "This question deals with a dog's tolerance for being poked, pulled, and handled by children, not always as kindly as we might like. Picture the prospective dog owners who want to feel confident that their dog, once it is an adult, will not snap at children. For such a person, can you rank these breeds from least to most likely to snap at children?"
Snapping is a characteristic that diners in prevalence from males to females, at least to a minor extent. According to the experts, males are in general somewhat more predisposed to snap than females. A good family or children's pet would necessarily have to rank low when it comes to snapping habits. However, other characteristics, such as high rankings on demand for affection, playfulness, and obedience training, and a low ranking on dominance, certainly enhance the profile of a good family dog. Snapping is one component of the overall reactivity, explained at the beginning of this article, and dogs that are low on snapping will tend to be low on other traits associated with reactivity.
A dominant dog is one who becomes unsure when made to change his mood. Since his response to resistance is straightforward, he is compelled to assert himself. He'll push back when he feels the left hand on his shoulder blade and will probably growl. Since he's stressed, he won't show any interest in the food, so any type of ingestion other than a snap at your hand or the lead isn't possible.
This dog is very much misunderstood. Since he's active and direct by nature, he's run into a lot of emotional dead ends in his dealings with people, and so he interprets all change as bad, relative to humans.
Profound hunger is definitely advisable in the early stages of training. When the dog is hungry enough, he will go on the down position smoothly. Improving the contact training is important because the resistance between the dog and the owner or handler is the central issue in this dog's temperament. You want to relax your dog about the status issue and have him learn that flexibility to change is actually good.
Address the problem more directly, because sooner or later you will have to work the dog without food. But first he must learn suppleness to the touch, just as if he was a puppy. Then, when it's time to train without food, put your left foot on the lead while you hold on to it with your right hand. From here you will patiently wait. As long as the dog doesn't overload or panic, slowly increase the pressure downward on his neck.
Do not position your head close to this type of dog. That will intensify his problem and increase his need to resist. As he start to tire or think about lying down to get more comfortable, talk sweetly to him. This weakens resistance. Amplify the softening sensation by starting to scratch his top-line and his ribs.
You want him to sense that by lying down he becomes the focus of the group. You aren't trying to make yourself dominant, that would only reinforce his unsureness and reconfirm his negative assessment of humans who make him change his mood. You want instead for him to learn that becoming subordinate leads to his highest experience of flow.
When he lies down, rub his belly. It's Ok for him to roll over because he's getting the experience of flow and you want to energize him in this moment so that his top-line is positively affected. His back is absorbing positive contact with the ground, and he's associating you with such a positive drive flow; you are doing a lot to teach him that “Down” is a peaceful pathway. If his top-line becomes supple, each repetition will see him go down faster and with less resistance.
With dominant dogs, the problem is not that they're dominant but that they're brittle, yet at the same time they have a strong sense of themselves. They don't adapt well and usually like to avoid new things. Because they're brittle and change slowly due to a strong sense of place, they appear to be tough dogs, which leads to their being misinterpreted. Consequently, in training they are pushed too fast and too hard. Since they have a strong sense of their place, they inevitably have to learn to push back.
No food should ever be fed to a dog unless that food is put into some type of a container. The practice of putting food on newspapers or directly on a cage floor or the ground serves no purpose except to contaminate the food from the surroundings.
This method also contaminates the surroundings from the food, draw flies, increase parasite transmission and soil the dog's coat. The money, time and energy a dog owner thinks he is saving by such feeding practices are completely wiped out by the loss of the dog, the time spent to clean floors and combat insects, or the effort needed to put a food-soiled coat back into show condition.
Feeding Bowls: No feeding bowl should be used unless it meets the following criteria: 1) It is the correct size for the dog that is using the container. 2) It is designed so that it is easily washed, drained and dried, or can be thrown away after each use. 3) It is made from satisfactory materials.
Feeding containers are made from a large number of materials, some good and some bad. An ideal material from which a dog's food container is made should: 1. Never be toxic to a dog. This includes the body of the feeding bowl, its coverings, and any paint, decals, printing or other decorations. 2. Capable of withstanding a reasonable amount of abuse from a dog's teeth. 3. Made of a substance that is non-corrosive to dog foods, dog urine and the other substances to which a feeding container normally may be subjected. 4. Resistant to soaps, detergents, water, grease and disinfectant solutions. 5. Resistant to breakage, cracking or similar damage under normal wear and tear. 6. Reasonably priced.
A material that meets every one of these specifications can be quite difficult to find. However, there are four materials that meet enough to be considered as suitable for dog food containers. These are glass, pottery, plastic and metal.
Glass containers are the least suitable of the four. They are unfit for kennels or breeder operations. Their fragile nature makes them unsuitable. The feeding bowl used for one house dog usually is handled individually at each feeding, just as the family's dishes and bowls are. Under such restricted conditions of handling, glass containers rarely are subject to breakage. And because of their low cost and attractive nature, glass feeding and watering bowls make satisfactory household food containers.
There are many types of dog collars and leashes that you can use for helping train your new puppy. However, while your puppy is as young as seven to ten weeks of age, we recommend that soft cotton collars be put on and off the puppy's neck several times during the day to help the pup adjust to the sensation of wearing the collar. Once your puppy is no longer stopping every two feet and scratching at his neck, you can move along and attach a light soft line to his collar and let him drag the line around the house.
You must supervise this event so he will not get tangled up or eat the line. Generally, after a couple of days the puppy will run around the house and not be intimidated by the drag-line. This is the time for you to pick up the line occasionally and walk your puppy around the house. If your pup stops walking, do not pull him, instead induce him with friendly gestures such as a waving hand or "baby" talk until he gets up and walks. At this time you will praise him wildly for moving along with you.
In order to continue making his leash time positive, it is a good idea to drop the line at times so that your puppy will have no opposition from tension on the line. When you notice him moving well along with you, break into a play session. The more comfortable your pup is with the leash the better it will be for both of you in the very near future. If you practice this exercise in your home with your young puppy, then it will pay off when you go for your outdoor walks.
Puppies should wear long light lines for two reasons. First, a long line conditions your puppy to believe that you have influence at a great distance. Second, short leashes will almost always create forging at the end of the line from the opposition of the tight line. Cotton, nylon, leather, and coated steel cable are all possibilities for a comfortable long line. The extendible-type leashes for bathroom walks and training the "come" command, although they do not provide very good control in busy situations.
Pit Bulls are very active and athletic dogs. They have an unlimited supply of energy and can play for long hours without tiring. You will seldom find a Pit Bull resting in a shade for a long period of time, but you will often see one that is running and jumping around with the passion and enthusiasm that only a Pit Bull can have.
You need to take certain precautions to make sure that your Pit Bull’s exercise is both fun and safe. You should always have him wear a leash whenever you take him outside. Regardless of how smart or trustworthy he is, he should never be allowed to go off-leash unless he is in your yard and surrounded by a tall and sturdy fence. When excited, even the smartest and the most trustworthy of dogs will sometimes forget their training for just a moment, which is all it takes to scare other people, run in front of traffic, or run away altogether.
You should never let your Pit Bull run free in public places. No matter how gentle and friendly he is, he could be perceived as a threat or a nuisance, especially for those who have a prejudiced opinion against his breed. Furthermore, many places prohibit dogs, especially dogs that are off their leash. And if your Pit Bull is not wearing a leash and an accident happens that involves another human, you are morally and legally responsible for it. Having the potential of endangering your dog’s life and possibly endangering another human being is not worth letting your dog run around without a leash.
There are great ways of giving your Pit Bull his exercise, while keeping him on a leash. Taking him for a walk is an excellent low-impact exercise for both you and your dog. You can start with a short walk and then gradually work your way up to longer distances. An adult Pit Bull should get a minimum of half a mile of daily walking, and of course more is always better.
Pit Bull puppies should never be walked long distances because too much walking can damage their developing bones. Older dogs and obese dogs should not be forced to walk farther than they can comfortably handle. Jogging is another fun exercise you can do with your dog. However, you have to work up to longer distances gradually.
As a safety measure, avoid jogging with your dog during hot weather. Pit Bulls are not built to be marathon runners; they cannot cool themselves as well as humans can and might suffer from heatstroke. Also avoid jogging your dog on hard surfaces which are bad for their joints. Always check the footpads for abrasions, tearing, gravel, or blistering from hot concrete. During winter, check in between the pads for balls of ice.
Cleaning up body discharges using natural ingredients
Often times a disease will cause discharges from different body orifices, including the eyes, ears, nose, and anus. Many sick dogs are left feeling miserable by the accumulation of the discharge that they cannot remove and can irritate underlying tissues.
Here are a few easy cleansing methods that offer great relief to your pet:
Eyes: In order to clean crusts and secretions from the eyes and eyelids, you can make a natural, non-irritating salt solution by mixing ¼ teaspoon of sea salt to a cup of filtered or distilled water. Stir the mixture well and use it to clean the eyes using a cloth or gauze. Once the eyes are clean, apply one drop of one of the following natural treatments in each eye: You can use almond oil for a mild irritation, castor oil for more irritated and inflamed eyes, or cod-liver oil for eyes that are extremely dry or ulcerated.
Ears: For ears that contain too much oily or waxy secretion, drop about ½ teaspoon of almond oil into the ear hole. You can do this by using a dropper or a squeeze bottle. To start the procedure, warm the oil in a cup that is partly immersed in a sink or a bowl of hot water. Gently but firmly lift the ear flap or tip. Have someone help you hold the dog’s head to keep it in place and also keep the dog distracted. If you let go or the dog pulls away before you finish with the procedure, he will shake the oil all over you. Make sure the almond oil runs down into his ear for a few seconds. As you are holding the ear flap, reach down with your other hand and gently massage the outside of the ear canal at the bottom of the ear opening. It will feel like a firm plastic tube that you can compress as you massage. When done right, you should hear a squishy sound. This procedure loosens up and dissolves the lodged wax. Use a tissue to remove the excess oil and debris. Use a cotton swab to wipe around the ear opening, but never inside the ear canal.
Nose: Carefully clean the secretion using a cloth or gauze saturated with warm water. This procedure takes patience because it involves waiting for the debris to soften so you can easily remove it. It may be necessary to have two or three short sessions instead of a single long one. Once the nose is clean and dry, gently smear the area with almond oil, either alone or mixed with vitamin E oil from a capsule. Repeat the process two to three times a day.
Anus: The anus will often get inflamed because of excessive diarrhea which causes the surrounding tissue to become irritated and get infected with bacteria. When the dog is suffering from diarrhea, you can keep the anus clean by dabbing it gently using a damp cloth. Do not rub the area to avoid further irritation. Pat it dry and apply calendula ointment two to three times a day.
Ticks are flat insects that are more or less the size of a small kernel of corn. Although they are small at first, ticks actually expand to many times their normal size right after a good meal. Dog ticks can live from anywhere between ten and twenty three weeks, depending on their ability to find a victim on which they would prey on.
Ticks usually attach themselves around the areas of the head, chest, belly, and front legs. The female tick needs to suck on blood not only for feeding but also for mating. Once the female tick finds a host, it fastens its legs to a hair shaft and then buries its mouths through the skin.
When the female tick is firmly locked with the host, it is then ready to feed and to mate with a male tick. A female tick significantly swells up after feeding, about fifty times more than its regular size.
After the female tick has mated, it will begin laying eggs. Female ticks lay an enormous number of eggs, usually up to 5,000 of them. These massive numbers of eggs are able to incubate in cracks and crevices all around the house. With enough warm climates, ticks can breed at any time, all year round.
Ticks are very dangerous parasites. They pose a threat not only to dogs and other animals but also to people that they come in contact with. They are responsible for transmitting certain types of illness to humans such as Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Lyme disease, encephalitis, and tularemia.
In addition to causing skin irritation and itching, ticks can do severe damage to a dog. There are certain types of dog ticks that emit a poisonous substance that can actually paralyze their hosts. Among these types are the scrub ticks and the bush ticks.
Once the tick problem becomes more than just a skin irritation and turns into Lyme disease, symptoms of this illness include fever, listlessness, and sudden start of lameness along with pain, warmth and swelling in one or more joints. Also, a circular area or skin inflammation around the tick bite may be visible, although it may be hard to detect because of the dog’s coat.
To prevent tick exposure, use a flea and tick spray that is recommended by your vet before taking your dog into an area containing thick vegetation. Also keep your grass and plants well trimmed. This decreases the amount of ticks you and your dog may run into.
Origins: The Poodle was originated in Germany and was first used as a water retriever. The breed's name comes from the German word “pudelnass” or puddle. He is now kept as a companion dog and a showdog.
Description: The Standard Poodle stands 15 inches or taller at the shoulder and weighs 50 to 65 pounds. The coat is curly and non-shedding and needs to be clipped every two months. The English saddle clip and the continental clip are high-maintenance show cuts. The sporting clip is easiest to maintain. In this style the hair on the body is about an inch long, there is a pompom on the tip of the tail, a topknot of hair remains on the head, and the face, feet, and tail are clean-shaven. Daily grooming includes using a wire-pin pneumatic brush and a wire-toothed metal comb. The colors may be black, white, apricot, gray, chocolate, or cream.
About the breed: This breed is an obedient, intelligent, alert, agile dog that is always friendly and eager to please. He has a good-temperament and is normally good with strangers and yet he makes an effective watchdog. He has a character that is full of fun but sometimes gets him into trouble. The Poodle's high level of energy is not for those who seek a lazy, easygoing dog. He needs plenty or exercise, particularly retrieving which is a constructive, enjoyable exercise in which he can excel.
Poodles learn quickly. Many are seen in the obedience ring and in agility competitions. They will respond well to training as long as you avoid heavy-handed techniques. The Standard Poodle can be one of the best family dogs around and can get along wonderfully with children. Again, Poodles need regular clipping, and it will be wise if you begin the handling, nail-clipping, and brushing sessions early in the dog's life.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for the this breed is about 1 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 3 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.
Ideal home: The Standard Poodle needs a house with a fenced yard. The owner of this breed should be a patient, consistent leader who prefers a smart, happy, energetic dog capable of excelling in obedience. This breed is very light on his feet and therefore makes a good jogging partner. He enjoys the company of children. Spoiling this dog could encourage stubborn, nippy behavior. Time to train and exercise this breed should be available. The elderly and the disabled may have a hard time controlling this big and active breed.
In young pups or dogs that have only chased a few times, correction is far simpler than if the dog has been chasing for more than a few weeks. Early correction can usually be made by transforming the stimulus, whether it is a car, bicycle, motorcycle, children on skates, etc, from an attractive to an aversive stimulus. One of the most effective methods involves the "monkey-see, monkey-do" principle. This requires the cooperation of one or several car owners who are prepared for the dog and stop their vehicle before any injury can be sustained. If bicycles, motorcycles or other stimuli cause the chase, these of course should be employed.
The owner should walk with the dog toward the street from various starting points the dog has used in the past or would be likely to use in the future for its attacks. Just as the dog starts to break into its run, the owner should suddenly reverse direction away from the vehicle, shouting as if fearful. The vehicle's operator must slam on the brakes, screeching the tires to a halt, after which the vehicle and operator must remain still until owner and dog have retreated to their own property and have gone from sight. Then, the vehicle should be driven or pedaled onward and a repeat performance set up.
The process must be repeated until the owner no longer needs to reverse his direction to stimulate the dog to retreat back to its own property. This may take as many as 20 repetitions, with the cooperating operators and vehicles rotating their appearances. When this is accomplished, the same method is used, with the owner absent from the scene, to test the degree of conditioning obtained. If the dog resumes chasing the vehicles, the procedure should be started anew until success is achieved.
The value of this method is best demonstrated in young dogs or those that have recently acquired the behavior. In older and more experienced dogs, more preparation and work are required. The tenacious chaser is usually one that has been at it for more than a few weeks. Underlying causes frequently involve more than simple satisfaction of a chase reflex. Many affected dogs have suffered severe injuries from their "conquests" after catching up with the mechanical prey, and yet have persisted in their folly to chase cars and other fast-moving vehicles.
In these cases, the total environmental and behavioral background must be examined to determine the causative factors; these must then be removed. Possible inciting causes include:
• Barrier or tether frustration. • Wandering free around the neighborhood. • Regular walks and urine marking. • Tendencies acquired through the owner's previous anxiety or overt chase behavior of vehicles or children on skates, skateboards, bikes, etc.
When it comes time to brush up on your dog's grooming, here are some helpful hints.
1. Select a brush that is intended for your dog's hair type. Brushes with bristles that are farther apart, such as pin brushes, are useful on dogs with longer, thicker hair, while brushes with shorter, harder bristles are useful on shorthaired dogs.
2. If you've purchased your dog from a breeder, ask the breeder what kind of brush is best to use on your breed.
3. Wire brushes and slicker brushes help remove dry, dead skin from your dog's coat along with the excess hair. Getting the hair out of the wire brushes and slickers once you've groomed your dog can be difficult if not impossible. To help remove the hair deposits on the wire brush, use a toothpick between the bristles.
4. An alternative to a brush is a grooming glove that you wear on your hand. The tiny prongs on the glove's surface remove dead hair as you gently stroke your dog. Pull the hair off for disposal in the trash.
5. An undercoat rake will help remove the undercoat of hair on your pet that typically knots up. Note: If you are showing your dog, make certain that removing the undercoat of your dog's coat is acceptable for the show ring.
6. To remove excess loose hair from your dog, wrap masking tape around your hand and run the tape lightly over his coat.
7. Massage your dog with dampened hands after you take a shower or bath to remove excess hair.
8. A damp rubber glove will help remove excess hair from your dog as well as your furniture.
9. If your dog enjoys being massaged, purchase a battery-operated massager or one that also functions as a brush and a way to collect loose hair. The gentle sound relaxes tension and the massage soothes sore muscles as you groom your dog.
10. Vacuuming hair from your dog helps when shedding season arrives and prevents some of it from attaching itself to your furniture. Some dogs like the vacuum cleaner; others don't. To accustom your dog to the vacuum being gently run over his coat, begin using it when he is a puppy.
11. If burrs have become tangled in your dog's hair, crush them with a pair of pliers before brushing them out. Another method of removing burrs is to first saturate them with white petroleum jelly or mineral oil, then work them out of your dog's hair with your hands.
Once your puppies' eyes open up then the real work and expense of rearing a litter begins. As puppies begin to display individual character traits their emotional and physical development relies ever more heavily upon the breeder and less with their dam. This is also when early observations can be made between the committed, conscientious breeder and one who lacks dedication.
The conscientious breeder recognizes and readily assumes the responsibilities of optimum caring for a litter and is not one who abandons them to their dam's care alone. The difference between breeder types is first discernible when the puppies are about three weeks or slightly older.
Supplementary feeding while continuing to allow the dam and offspring full access to each other is crucial to large litters, yet often is of no less important with relatively few puppies. Untimely puppy supplementation causes the dam's health to wane shortly before deprivation becomes noticeable in her offsprings' development. A brood matron should be vibrantly healthy, carrying neither excess weight nor appearing undernourished. The emotionally and physically healthy dam consistently maintains an active and lively interest in her puppies and environment.
Earliest puppy stimulation and socialization with the breeder begin from the moment of birth when the sac is broken. Because their first sense is that of scent, the breeder is familiar to the puppies before their eyes open. Further stimulation is given by the breeder as puppies' eyes open and they become aware of a hazy world beyond their olfactory sense. Until now they essentially became familiar with their breeder's scent through their dam's coat and learned different portions of her anatomy: where there is and is not her heavy milky scent.
Only the breeder should handle puppies during their first two weeks. While such handling is consistent with sound early puppy care practices, it does in reality limit their world. Once they react to a feathery touch on their eyelids, although their eyes are not yet open puppies are highly aware of differences in people. As a result, puppies can react violently the first time handled by anyone other than their breeder.
Some struggle, screaming to be free; others may growl menacingly although the new handler implicitly follows the breeder's instructions. Reactions can be indicative of how puppies handle strange situations later in life: reactions from complacency to submission or aggressiveness, dependent socialization of puppies at first contact by a stranger.
Puppies' first human bonding is through the breeder. The experiences must therefore be positive. If a puppy is incorrectly handled or handled not at all, it responds instinctively with distrust toward all humans. It is therefore crucially important that all early contacts be positive. Once the barrier of distrust is instilled, the puppy becomes hard to work with, and in some cases, unmanageable.
As someone who lives in the city, there are many ways to exercise a dog in your area. Why limit your dog's exercise just with a walk in your neighborhood? There's an attitude among some city dwellers that having a dog in the city isn't fair to the dog. Somehow, there is this myth that dogs are happiest in rural areas where they have plenty of room to roam, or in suburban areas with big backyards.
The city offers many options for exercising your dog. Owners should view the city as a vast playground. Often, it is a matter of using your imagination. One of the best ways to take advantage of your city area is to go running with your dog. When an owner runs with a dog, it is a beautiful thing to watch.
Many breeds of dogs were meant to run. Why not share a runner's high with your dog? Good advice when running with your dog is to run with him on leash and to observe the rules of the street, of course. I know runners don't like to stop at street corners with their dogs while they are running, but I hate to see a dog being taught that he can run across the street without stopping and not given the proper cross command. As a runner, you have to stop at street corners with red lights while running in place, so do the same thing whenever you arrive at any given corner.
It is not advisable to take a young puppy on a run since it will be hard on his hips and his bones are too soft. But when a puppy reaches his ninth month, he should be able to go safely on long runs with you. Check with your vet to find out when your dog is ready to start running with you.
If you run in the park, you don't have to worry about crossing at different streets. But you will have to teach him to stop at strategic areas along the path, such as cross paths, parking lots and other congested areas. Keep a leash on your dog so that it will be a smoother run. There are too many distractions around, and your run will be interrupted if he starts chasing a squirrel or rabbit.
Running teaches your dog to follow you since he will be running at your side. Your dog does not have to be at a perfect heel during a run. What you basically want to share with your dog is a good rhythm. If you are using a harness, he can run in front of you.
Running is also great for developing the musculature structure in dogs. Just take care that you don't run on days that are too hot for your dog. You will also want to inspect his pads after a run since they can take a beating on asphalt.
