Do you arrive at the office looking like you rolled over with your dog? Do your dinner guests politely pick dog hair from their food before eating it? Nothing says "I have a dog" more than hair clinging to our clothing, hair wafting through the air in our homes, or hair burrowing into the butter. Frequent vacuuming is one of the best ways to cut down on hair buildup, but if you don't always have time to drag out the vacuum cleaner, try some of these quick and dirty suggestions for cleaning up the piles of pet hair.
1. To sweep up loose dog hair from hardwood or vinyl floors, use a dampened mop.
2. Wall-to-wall carpeting holds down the hair more than hard-wood or vinyl floors, so adding a carpet to a room may help keep dog hair from wafting through your house.
3. To pick up loose dog hair that is attached to upholstered furniture, wear a dampened rubber glove or use a damp sponge.
4. Use a sticky roller to lift dog hair from fabrics and upholstery. Washable sticky rollers enable you to recycle instead of dispose of the product.
5. Purchase a washable Furniture Magnet Pet Hair Remover to help you wipe off the dog hair from clothing, furniture, or pillows. Place it under your furniture cushions for easy access.
6. To pick up dog hair from your carpet, use a window squeegee.
7. Choose furniture made from smooth fabrics such as leather, faux leather, or other fabric to which loose hair won't stick as readily.
8. Place a washable towel or blanket over your dog's favorite sleeping spot to keep hair from clinging to cushions.
9. Use washable window coverings if your dog likes to watch the world go by from the floor in front of a picture window or patio doors.
10. Draperies made of smooth fabrics won't attract as much hair as heavy textured ones, so if you're in the market for some new window furnishings, purchase ones that are less likely to become filled with your dog's hair.
11. Keep a lint brush near your favorite easy chair. Then, after your dog sits on your lap, you can roll off the hair before you get up.
12. Use a feather duster or device to clean between slats of mini-blinds to remove deposited hair.
13. Change the furnace and air conditioner filters more often during shedding season to prevent blockage.
Body Language: Your Dog's Movements & What They Mean
Dogs use their bodies and paws to express a variety of different things. Below are some examples and what they mean.
Dog crouches with front legs extended, rear up, and head near the ground: This is the classic play-bow and means simply "I want to play!"
Stiff-legged, upright posture or slow, stiff-legged movement forward: "I am in charge around here!" and "I challenge you." A dominant dog will use this posture to indicate assertion of authority and a willingness to fight for it.
Body slightly sloped forward, feet braced: "I accept your challenge and am ready to fight!"
Dog rolls on side or exposes underside: "Let us not argue" or "I am not a threat to you" or "I accept that you are in charge here." This is a submissive response to avert conflict. Many dogs adopt this posture in a fairly relaxed and contented manner when they are around their pack leader. When your dog rolls on his back for a belly rub, he is actually accepting you as leader of the pack.
Dog places head on another dog's shoulder or places paw on the back of another dog: "I want you to know who is the boss around here." These gestures are commonly used by dominant dogs, pack leaders, and dogs that have aspirations of becoming a pack leader.
Mouthing: This shows up in dog-human interactions as the dog taking the handler's hand in his mouth or, while walking, taking the lead in the mouth. Mouthing can be a serious sign of dominance challenging and shows that the dog does not accept the human as pack leader.
Dog places paw on master's knee: "Look, I am here" or "Pay attention to me." This attention-seeking signal has many variations. They include pawing the air in front of their master or sliding the head under the master's hand.
Hair bristles on back and shoulders: This is a sign of anticipated aggression. A ridge of hair bristling down the back is a sign that says "Do not push me, I am angry!" When the bristling extends to the shoulders it means "I have had it with you" and is a sign of an imminent attack.
Dog sits with one front paw slightly raised: This is another sign of stress but is combined with insecurity. It means "I am anxious, uneasy and concerned."
Dog rolls on his back and rubs it on the ground: This is sometimes preceded by nose rubbing where the dog pushes his face, and possibly his chest against the ground in a rubbing motion or rubs the face with a forepaw, from eyes to nose. They often follow feeding or occur as the dog's owner begins to prepare food. However they also can occur following or in anticipation of other pleasant activities.
Scraping the ground and ripping the turf with the paws: This is usually after the dog has defecated but may occur at other times. Dogs have glands on the bottom of their feet that provide each with a unique scent. What a dog is saying here is " I was here and I am leaving my calling card!"
All of the games and skills discussed below are designed to contribute to both the fun and the positive upbringing of your puppy. These energy-producing exercises act as building blocks that make advanced training easier and enhance the bond between owner and puppy.
Grooming Practice: Starting grooming procedures at an early age teaches the puppy acceptance of hands-on treatment over all parts of his body and emphasizes relaxed "stays." Grooming also assures the owner of dominance as nails are cut and teeth are cleaned, as the puppy learns to be quiet and tolerate-these "house-cleaning" techniques.
Hide & Seek: Hide and seek is fun for owners and puppies alike and helps teach your puppy how to come.
1. Put your puppy on a sit-stay or have someone else hold his leash. 2. Hide behind a nearby tree or, if inside, a piece of furniture. 3. Wait five seconds, then call him excitedly. 4. When he "finds" you, praise him with lots of love and a tidbit or ball. 5. Make each hiding place a little harder and a little farther away. Sometimes return to your puppy and end the game at that point so he will not think he always has to leave to get you near him.
Find The Toy: Find The Toy teaches early discrimination by smell.
1. Tie your puppy to a chair or have someone hold his leash. 2. Let him watch you put several objects on the floor: a can, bottle, box, telephone. Use a glove or just barely touch these articles when placing them on the floor. 3. Go back to your puppy, take his favorite toy and hold it in your hands for several seconds, and let him watch as you throw it in with the other objects. 4. Release him and tell him "Fetch!" 5. When he does, praise him lavishly. 6. As he gets good at selecting his toy, use one of your well-scented gloves or socks and put it with similar objects that are unscented. Pretty soon scent discrimination will be an understood part of his life from your viewpoint, not just from his viewpoint.
High Jump: At first, try just walking over the jump with the puppy at your side. If that works, fine; if not, put your puppy on one side of the jump and get on the other side. Use a piece of food to coax him over. If you have a leash on the puppy be sure to keep it loose when he jumps. You never pull a puppy (or a dog) over a jump.
Bar Jump: Same as above, except start with the bar on the ground. Slowly raise it after each successful jump.
History and origin: This scent hound is an old breed, dating back to Roman times. He is said to have been brought to England by William the Conqueror in 1066. This dog has the most powerful sense of smell of all the breeds. In the United States, he has been used as a tracker of fugitives and lost individuals.
Description: The Bloodhound stands 24 to 26 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 90 and 110 pounds. This is a large, powerful animal with great stamina and drive. The shedding coat is short and requires regular brushing with a hound glove to keep it in good condition. The color may be black-and-tan, red-and-tan, or all tan. Bloodhounds have loose, wrinkled skin and long ears.
About the breed: The Bloodhound is known to be the best tracker of all the scent hounds. He is excellent at picking up a scent and following it relentlessly until the prey is located, but he does not kill it. This breed is a highly specialized dog specifically designed to perform a single task: tracking. Breeders have created not only a dog with the best nose in the business but also a dog with a relentless, determined mind-set. The Bloodhound will follow a scent forever and ignore everything else, including you. Choosing a Bloodhound for a family pet would be like using a bulldozer to drive to the corner store. More than any other breed, the Bloodhound needs to perform the task for which he was bred. Although most of them have a very good temperament, there have been few cases of very aggressive Bloodhounds. The relentless, determined, non-thinking mind-set that is so effective in tracking can be transformed into aggressive behavior as well. When a Bloodhound becomes aggressive, he is almost impossible to stop. Keep in mind that this is a very big dog. The Bloodhound needs obedience training and socialization early in life. He is stubborn and is easily distracted by scents that you cannot perceive.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Bloodhound is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.
Ideal home: This breed will be suitable for hunters, trackers, police departments, and search and rescue teams and is not really recommended as a family pet. He can be intolerant of children and may bite if teased or provoked. However, if you choose to have this breed as a family pet, he needs to live in the country and requires a fenced yard or kennel. The owner must be a strong, no nonsense leader and must use this breed to do the work he was bred for. Keep in mind that he needs plenty of exercise to keep him happy and healthy.
One of the most popular games dogs play with each other is the game of “catch-me”. They delight in being either the chaser or the chasee. Most dogs are more comfortable in the role of chasee when playing with people. Some trainers caution against play-chasing your dog for fear the dog will learn she can evade you. But most dogs already know you are as slow as a slug.
Before playing this game, you should teach your dog to come when called and you should use distinctive words to signal the beginning and end of the catch-me game. Begin the game with "I'm gonna get you!" and stalk your dog, pouncing at him. Give chase as best you can, but if he leaves you in the dust, either crouch down and wait for him to do a fly-by (when you can pounce at him once again) or turn around and run full blast the opposite way - a sure-fire way to get him headed back in your direction.
Some dogs like to see how close they can pass without hitting you. If you have one of these, stand perfectly still so you don't run into the dog's path. A high-speed collision with a dog is very dangerous for both of you. At the end of the game, give a game-over word such as "finished" and call the dog to you using his regular recall command. Give him a treat and take a break.
Bobbing-For-Treats
This game will give your dog the ability to pick up floating or sunken objects from water, plus it's fun watch with other dogs that join the dog-party! It is basically the canine version of bobbing for apples. Since no self-respecting dog is going to get his muzzle wet for an apple, all you need to do is substitute dog biscuits, hot dog slices or other treats. Experiment to find some that float on top, some that float just below the surface and some that sink.
If you're having a summer pool party, you can use a child's wading pool and let each dog splash around after the treats. For more formal affairs you can use a large bowl or pot. There's a reason you don't just fill up your bathtub, though: One sight of it filled with water and all your doggy guests will head for the exit, sure you have a dreaded bath planned!
Fill your pool or bowl with lukewarm water. If you're using a bowl or pot, change the water between contestants; if you're using a pool just empty it after the entire contest. Let each dog have a practice bob until he gets one treat. Then start the clock and see how many he can grab in two minutes. Can anyone get them all?
A variation on the theme for ball-crazy dogs is to fill a kiddie pool with tennis balls. See how many balls each dog can pick up and give to his person in one minute. The person is allowed to get in the pool and encourage the dog in any way, and she can take each ball from the dog as soon as the ball is totally out of the water. The person can even help by picking up balls herself - of course, using only her teeth.
Have you noticed that your dog has been scratching his ears a lot lately? When you took a closer look at his ear to find out what is causing him to develop this new habit, you noticed that his ear has a dark discoloration? You probably also noticed a foul smelling discharge emanating from the stained ear. Your dog just might have ear mites.
What exactly are ear mites and how do you get rid of them? Will ear mites affect your dog’s hearing ability? If you have other dogs in the house, should you be worried that they might also catch ear mites? Today's article will answer these questions for you.
Ear mites are speck like parasites that feed on skin particles inside your dog’s ear. They have tentacles that irritate the ear canal, making your dog vulnerable to bacterial or fungi infection.
Ear mites are very contagious. They have the tendency to frequently wander away from the dog’s ear and into the dog’s coat until eventually landing into another dog's ears. And because they can easily shift their way from one dog to another, they are easily transferred from mother to her puppies. This makes ear mites the most common offender of ear infection in puppies and young dogs.
Symptoms of ear mites include excessive scratching of the ear, head shaking, constant rubbing of the ear against the wall or any objects, and a waxy, dark-colored discharge. The ear may also look dark and crusty and usually emits a foul smelling odor.
If you think that your dog has a problem with ear mites, take him to the vet as soon as possible. Early treatment is crucial to prevent a more serious ear infection. Once your vet determines the presence of ear mites, treatment includes washing out the debris with an insecticidal preparation that will kill the mites. Your vet will also instruct you to continue on with the treatment at home on a daily basis. This daily treatment of ear mites usually goes on for about three full weeks.
In addition to prescribing medication for ear mites, your vet may also direct you to get a flea powder and sprinkle it on the dog’s skin. This process will kill leftover mites that were able to travel away from your dog’s ear. Your vet may also suggest that you treat other dogs and cats in your home that may have become infected through direct contact. Make sure to carry on with the entire time of treatment. Since mites lay their eggs in the ears, a new crop will again infect your dog if you stop the treatment too soon.
How can I stop dog fleas from attacking my dog? Is there a natural solution to ward off dog fleas? Are there any ways to prevent dog flea before it starts to spread and become a serious problem?
Dog fleas have been around since the earliest times, welcoming your dog during spring and summer seasons. There are number of ways you can cure your dog of dog fleas. You can either use an insecticide dip, a dog flea spray, an anti-flea drug, a dog flea collar, or a dog flea shampoo.
When using any kind of dog flea treatment, you have to check your dog’s skin for any sign of allergic or sensitive reaction. Also, talk to your vet before starting any kind of dog flea treatment to puppies and older dogs.
Puppies should never wear dog flea collars nor should they be powdered until they are at least eight weeks old. In addition, dog flea treatment for older dogs may be more challenging because certain changes associated with aging make them bad candidates to certain dog flea chemicals. Older dogs are also prone to dog flea allergy dermatitis.
There have been many different methods people have used over the years to fight off dog fleas. Many people believe that it is possible that one teaspoon of brewer’s yeast may keep dog fleas away when mixed into the dog’s regular meal. And because brewer’s yeast is rich in various B vitamins, it is also beneficial for your dog regardless of its effect on dog fleas.
You can also ask your vet about dog flea products that can kill a dog flea right after biting your dog, thereby minimizing the rate of infestation around your house. It is also important to check your dog for infestation every day, especially during dog flea season. When checking your dog for dog fleas, give special attention to his neck, his belly, his inner thighs, and his legs.
There is one method of getting rid of dog fleas that does not involve the use of any chemical. To begin with the treatment, wash your dog in warm water (making sure that it is not hot), scrubbing him down with soap at the same time. Next, have him sit in the water for about fifteen minutes.
Make sure that you keep him relaxed and busy, otherwise, it will be hard for him to stay put. This process should get rid of all the dog fleas that have thus far been underwater. For your last step, wash other body parts of your dog that have not been submerged using a cooled mixture of one teaspoon of dried rosemary boiled in water. This dog flea treatment is very effective and also gives off a very pleasant smell to your dog.
The Chinese Crested dog has a delicate and fine-boned body. The breed comes in two types- the hairless and powder puff. The hairless variety has no coat aside from the silky tufts on his head, tail, and feet – which means no hairs on carpet. Unlike all other breeds, he is hairless and has sweat glands on his body.
The powder puff variety has a medium-length, silky, soft, and shedding coat. Although still very apparent, the powder puffs have been excluded from selective breeding over a period of years. Many believe that the powder puffs are nature’s way of keeping these hairless breeds warm. This dog is handy sized, clean, odorless, and is great a pet dog as well as a show dog. He is intelligent, alert, inquisitive, courageous, gentle, devoted to his owners, and gets along well with children.
He is sometimes timid with strangers and other dogs. Training should be precise and patient. Socialization is crucial from puppy hood to help boost the confidence of this sensitive toy breed. This dog can be difficult to housebreak and can be noisy at times. Spoiling may result to a pushy and nippy dog that lacks confidence. He seldom requires veterinary care and is a free whelper. He has the ability to grip his paws in a charming and almost human fashion. This breed is allergic to wool.
Size: The Chinese Crest stands between 11-13in at the shoulder and weighs between 6-10lb.
History and origin: Though the age of this breed is not clear, it is believed to have been developed by the Chinese in the 17th century from the bloodlines of African Hairless dogs. Up until 1966, an elderly lady in the United States, Mrs. Ruth Harris owned the only examples of this breed in the world.
She introduced 4 of these to the United Kingdom. Nowadays, the Chinese Crested is becoming more and more popular and is being included in an increasing number of dog shows. The breed is also recognized by the British Kennel Club.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is ½ -3/4 can of high-quality brand dog food (13.3oz size) or the fresh meat equivalent with a cupful of small dog biscuits. You may want to keep a bowl of biscuits handy so that the dog may help himself when puckish, but remove them if you think he is becoming overweight. This breed lack premolar teeth, and thus it is inadvisable to give them bones.
Exercise: An apartment is fine for this small breed provided he gets a brisk walk or 2 each day.
Grooming: This breed requires frequent bathing. The skin should be regularly rubbed with baby oil to prevent cracking and to keep it smooth to the touch. Extra care must be taken to prevent sunburn and to maintain the skin free of blackheads to which they are prone to during adolescence.
The key to having a good relationship with a Dalmatian, whether he is a member of the family as an older dog or comes as a puppy from a litter, is in the amount of attention and affection with which you establish boundaries of behavior. They are eagerly responsive to attention, games, praise and positive training.
However, they have a sharp memory for negative or harshly corrective actions. They will respond much more readily to rewards for approximating desired behavior than being forced into the position or posture you wish them to assume.
The difference between holding out a reward until they sit versus pushing down on their hindquarters while pulling up on their lead and commanding them to "sit!" lies in two critical areas. They will more readily and consistently respond to a "sit" command taught through play learning, and they will not start calculating how they can avoid you or avoid sitting, or get back at you for the "pushy" approach.
No dog is happily responsive to abusive training practices, but the Dalmatian has a peculiarly sharp memory for affronts. If they have had a bad experience learning how to sit, they are almost certain to resist other obedience lessons which take on the same manipulative tone.
Many people think that Dalmatians have nervous temperaments, excessive energy and are hyper. This generalization is unfair to the breed, because good temperament has been a specific focus of breeders for the last twenty years. There is little question that in any planned breeding program, you can select for bad temperament just as you can select for good temperament.
Parentage, pedigrees and the variety of genetic possibilities force breeders to contend with that possibility. It is one of the conscious considerations in every breeding decision.
There is no question that Dalmatians get excited when someone comes on the property or to the door. They want to be the first one there to check out the visitor. Proper training will take care of any barking or control problems in this area, but guests who are greeted in this manner, especially those who have heard that Dalmatians are "hyper," could easily confirm what they have heard by the excitement they first see.
Hopefully, they will stay long enough to see the excited greeting followed by the normal pattern, which usually includes acceptance followed by settling back down for a snooze under the table.
If Dalmatian puppies have been raised in a calm environment with their mother; if they have been touched, petted and handled regularly by the breeder; if they have been properly vaccinated and wormed; if they have been weaned to a good quality puppy food; if they were taken from their litter by their new owner no earlier than seven weeks of age; and if they were introduced to their new home life with kindness and thoughtfulness, then chances are good that you will not see any behavior abnormalities.
