The Jack Russell Terrier has a sturdy, compact body with either a short, hard coat or a rough, wiry coat. He is handy size, full of character, and makes for a wonderful sporty companion as well as a house pet.
Though he is intelligent, he can be difficult to train because of his stubborn nature and high activity level. This breed is very affectionate with his family and usually friendly toward strangers. He can be easily distracted, particularly by scent and should be kept on leash when taken outside. Training method should be consistent and firm from puppy hood.
Size: The Jack Russell Terrier stands 11-14in at the shoulder and weighs between 10-16lb.
History and origin: This breed was initially developed by Reverend Jack Russell in Devonshire, England who died about 100 years ago. He built up a strain of wire-haired fox Terriers that would hunt with his hounds. They would also go to ground and bolt the fox. Jack Russell not only bred these unique terriers but also judged terriers at West Country shows and was one of the earliest members of the Kennel Club.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is ½ - 1can of high quality meat product (13.3oz size) with biscuit added in same amount by volume or 1 ½ cupfuls of a complete, dry food.
Exercise: This breed is suitable for apartment life provided he gets daily exercise. However, this breed needs regular activity to curb his restlessness. He loves to play with a ball and can be a good retriever.
Grooming: A daily brushing with a stiff brush is recommended to keep his coat in good condition.
The Smooth Fox Terrier has a strong, athletic body. Many agree that he is the smartest of the terrier breeds, second to none in killing vermin and bolting fox. He is an alert, smart, amusing, lively, and independent breed. The Smooth Fox Terrier is an excellent working dog and makes an intelligent pet.
He is a sturdy clean little dog with a lot of spirit and personality, able to fit into any lifestyle if given a fair chance. He is easily trainable. Because of his terrier instinct, this dog loves to bark. Digging is also a natural talent which needs to be expressed. He has a tendency to be feisty and defiant at times. The Smooth Fox Terrier has a higher than normal prey drive for a terrier and may be very aggressive toward other dogs.
He is suspicious of strangers and does not quickly warm up to them. This breed may not be tolerant of small children. He can be easily distracted, and it is often hard to focus his attention, particularly when other animals are present. Training should start early and be consistent and firm. “Down” and “Come” commands are often difficult to teach this stubborn, willful breed.
Socialization is crucial as soon as possible; you need to start introducing him to people and dogs from puppy hood. Spoiling may create a pushy, dominant dog that uses biting to get his way. Unlike other terriers, the Smooth Fox loves to retrieve. Use this method to get his attention as well as a constructive exercise.
Size: The Smooth Fox Terrier stands 14-15 ½ in at the shoulder and weighs between 15 and 20lb.
History and origin: This breed was used in England in the 18th century as a bolter of fox and as a ratter. It is believed that various breeds such as Greyhound, Beagle, Wire Fox, and Bull Terrier were used in the development of the Smooth Fox. The breed made his first debut in show ring in 1862 at the Birmingham, England National Dog Show.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed would be ½ - 1 can of high quality meat product (13.3oz size) with biscuit added in equal amount or 1 ½ cupfuls of a complete dry food.
Exercise: The ideal home for this highly active breed is a house with fenced yard, though an apartment is adequate as long as he is getting his daily exercise. Several walks a day is necessary for this breed as well as occasional runs.
Grooming: This breed has a smooth, short, and shedding coat that requires daily brushing using a stiff brush. Trimming is required a few weeks before a show, paying particular attention to the inside and outside of ears, jaw, and muzzle.
Like tourists who assume everyone speaks English, or should, it is second nature to us to think that the world looks pretty much the same to all creatures, great and small, including our dogs. For example, we rarely give much thought to the optical processes that turn light into vision; we assume that our visual version of reality is reality.
Even those of us who wear glasses fall into this way of thinking. Glasses bring things back into focus so they once again look like they are. If those people who run around staging role-playing seminars on multiculturalism for business executives were to do the same for multi-species, I would suggest as the first group exercise they get everyone down on the floor with their eyeballs about six inches off the ground. Simply by virtue of visual perspective, the world looks very different to a Chihuahua.
Dogs also differ from humans in their ability to focus on near objects, to perceive and distinguish detail, and to see contrasts between light and dark. Some of these differences are relatively minor, but some must result in a highly altered version of reality. The most remarkable feature of the human eye is its extraordinary power of "accommodation."
The lens in a normal eye, when relaxed, is of just the right thickness and curvature to bend incoming light rays from a far distance (equivalent to the setting of "infinity" on a camera lens) so that they converge in sharp focus upon the retina at the back of the eye. If the lens were incapable of adjustment, the light rays from close objects would end up converging at an imaginary point well behind the retina; the result would be a grossly blurred image striking the light-sensitive cells of the retina. But by squeezing the lens with muscles that are under unconscious control, we can make the lens thicker and alter its curvature, bringing close objects into proper focus. The greater the squeeze, the closer to our face is the focus.
In young children, the eye's lens is capable of adjusting by as much as 14 diopters, an optical unit used in describing the power of lenses (and in prescribing eyeglasses). That degree of accommodation corresponds to being able to focus on everything from infinity to an object less than three inches away. By way of comparison, eyeglasses with a power of 14 diopters would look like the proverbial Coke bottle bottoms. (Most glasses for correcting nearsightedness in humans run about 1 to 5 diopters.)
Dogs have a much more limited power of accommodation, generally not more than 2 or 3 diopters, which means they can focus on close objects only if they are no nearer than a foot or two. Anything closer than that will unavoidably be a blur. That may well explain why dogs generally try to sniff or touch objects at close range: they simply cannot see them very well. If the relaxed lens normally brings a distant object's image into focus behind the retina, the result is hyperopia or farsightedness.
1. Continuous rapid barking, midrange pitch: "Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!" Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: "The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!"
2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, midrange pitch: "I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it."
3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: "Is there anybody there? I'm lonely and need companionship." This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.
4. One or two sharp short barks, midrange pitch: "Hello there!" This is the most typical greeting sound.
5. Single sharp short bark, lower midrange pitch: "Stop that!" This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.
6. Single sharp short bark, higher midrange: "What's this?" or "Huh?" This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to "Come look at this!" alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and sharp, is used to mean "Come here!" Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed midrange means "Terrific!" or some other similar expletive, such as "Oh, great!" My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.
7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: "Ouch!" This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.
8. Series of yelps: "I'm hurting!" "I'm really scared" This is in response to severe fear and pain.
9. Stutter-bark, midrange pitch: If a dog's bark were spelled "ruff," the stutter-bark would be spelled "ar-ruff." It means "Let's play!" and is used to initiate playing behavior.
10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you've heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch - almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as "This is fun!"
Obesity is the most common nutritional disease in American dogs today. It is the result of simply eating more calories than are burned. Dogs have a built-in protection against this disease, a control mechanism in their brains that satisfies their hunger after they have eaten enough calories to meet their daily energy needs. However, it is possible to upset this control mechanism.
By feeding the dog a food that is highly palatable, he will eat to satisfy his appetite and not his hunger. The only way to remove the excessive fat from a dog's body is by reversing the way it was put on, which is feeding the dog fewer calories than he will burn for energy. When this is done, the dog's body will burn up energy stored in his body to obtain what he needs.
Fat is the most efficient source of energy and will be used in the greatest amount whenever energy is needed. A reduction in caloric intake cannot be achieved by just cutting down the quantity of food you feed your dog. Drastic cuts in the quantity of food fed will only lead to deficiencies that pose an even greater threat to the dog than the obesity does which are deficiencies of proteins, vitamins and minerals. It will also make your dog ravenously hungry! Fats and carbohydrates that contain the most calories should be replaced by ingredients that are less digestible and lower in calories.
The diet of an overweight dog should not contain more than 1400 calories per pound of dry matter. This is approximately 1250 to 1300 calories per pound of dry food or 330 to 350 calories per pound of canned food. A more accurate and convenient way of obtaining a reducing diet is to use a dietary animal food specifically designed for that purpose. This food can be obtained from a vet. It contains 330 calories per pound and is balanced to provide the correct amount of other nutrients for the dog when fed at that caloric density. Whatever the food used, the quantity of it that should be fed has to be estimated.
Portion control is the only method of feeding that can be used during a weight reducing program. Treat or supplement should not be given during the reduction program. If a dog is more than 10 pounds overweight, (over his ideal body weight) begin your weight reducing program by feeding him only 2/3 the quantity calculated to maintain his desired weight. The full amount of food should be given once a reduction in weight begins to occur.
For dogs that are less than 10 lb overweight, begin with the full amount calculated. In dogs weighing less than 10 pounds, use the two-thirds guide for any dog that is more than 33% of his desired weight overweight. It may require several months or longer before a dog reaches his optimum weight. Do not expect your dog to lose the weight in just a few days.
Taking off weight too fast can be dangerous to a fat dog. Once optimum weight has been attained, most dogs will have to be kept on portion control feeding. Dogs that tend to get fat need to have their intake closely regulated to prevent them from gaining back the lost weight.
Training your Pitbull is easier than training other dog breeds. One of the reasons that this is so is because Pit Bulls are among the smartest and the most willing participants when it comes to dog training. Another reason is that they are very eager to please their owners. And since dog training techniques of today are easier and more effective than ever, there is no reason why your Pitbull cannot be the friendliest and the most intelligent dog on the block.
Here are six tips when it comes to Pit Bull dog training:
1. Remember that all dogs live in the present moment. Every time you reward or punish your Pitbull, he can only assume that it is for his behavior at the time of the reward or punishment. For example, if you happen to find a mess that he did a few hours ago, do not drag him to it from his nap and then start scolding him. He will only think that he is being scolded because of taking a nap.
2. You have to be consistent with your rules. If he was not allowed to sleep in your bed last night, then he should not be allowed to sleep in it tonight or or any other night for that matter, regardless of how much he begs. By giving in to his begging, he will only learn that begging sometimes pays off. This will then create a behavior pattern that is difficult to change.
3. Your Pitbull will repeat actions that bring him rewards, whether the rewards are intentional or otherwise. Letting him out of the cage to make him stop whining may temporarily work. However, in the long run you will end up with a Pitbull who continuously whines whenever he is placed in a cage. Be sure to only reward behaviors that you want to see repeated.
4. Keep in mind that your Pitbull is very eager to please you. All you have to do is to show him the way. Forcing your dog can distract and even intimidate him, thus slowing down his learning process.
5. It is not necessary to repeat a command over and over or to yell louder and louder. Doing so will not make your dog understand what you are trying to get across. Your Pitbull is not deaf, and if he behaves like he is, you just need to steer him toward the right direction. This will probably mean taking a step back in your training.
6. Above all, be patient. Although things may not go as smoothly as you hoped it would be, it is still possible to train your dog. You just need to be realistic, firm but gentle, consistent, and always maintain a good sense of humor with your pet.
Pitbulls are in rescue for many reasons. The most common one is simply because their first owners did not think things through properly when they decided to get a Pitbull. Another reason is that the dog did not get along well with the children or other pets in the house. Some Pit Bulls were rescued from illegal dog-fighting operations and will require extra care and rehabilitation. These dogs need special attention with experienced owners.
There are many Pitbull rescue groups available that have these pets screened for temperament and health problems. However, just like what you would expect from a good breeder, there are organizations that are very picky about prospective homes for these abandoned dogs. Experienced rescue groups evaluate the needs and special requirements of each dog in their care and help you get a dog that fits well with your situation and lifestyle.
Because most of these dogs in rescue have already been to too many homes, you have to choose one very carefully to make sure that your home will be the one where he can settle in permanently. Contact your local animal shelter and ask to be notified if a Pitbull should become available.
Most dogs, including your Pitbull, get a thrill of being inside the car and going for a ride. They love the feel of the wind against their face and the excitement of the cars passing by as they hang their heads out of the window to enjoy the view.
But while riding in a car is pure bliss for your Pit Bull, accidents can and do happen. You have a responsibility as their owners to take precautions to ensure their safety and comfort while inside the car.
Also, having your Pitbull ride in the back of a pick-up truck is very irresponsible. No matter how well balanced your dog may appear to be, she cannot stay in the pick-up bed if you happen to slam on your brakes, suddenly swerve into another direction, or get into an accident. He will surely be thrown from the truck and is very likely to be killed.
Tying your dog in place by his collar is also an unsafe move – it is just a way for him to get a broken neck. A doggy seatbelt is a very good investment that you can provide for your dog. It is widely available online and in pet stores.
Lastly, a sturdy cage is also effective in keeping your Pitbull safe inside the car. Make sure that it is securely fastened to the car for both his and your safety.
In some dogs it is not unusual to notice a mild diarrhea following a change in food. This is particularly true in younger animals. In most instances it persists only until the dog's intestinal tract adjusts to the new food. In rare instances the diarrhea resulting from a change in diet lasts longer and may precipitate more serious forms of diarrhea.
To prevent diarrhea from developing during a dietary change, make the change gradually. A gradual change allows the intestinal tract to make a slow transition from the ingredients and physical characteristics of one food to those of the other.
Should diarrhea develop despite the precautions taken, reduce the amount of food being fed by one-half for a day or two. If this fails to correct the upset stomach then return to feeding the old food until the stool is normal again. Should the addition of the new food a second time also precipitate diarrhea, it is probable that the new food does not agree with your dog. If a third food is available it may be best to try an alternative method rather than to continue to subject your dog to a food that fails to agree with it.
Routine grooming serves three major purposes: First, it keeps your dog's skin, coat, teeth, gums, and nails in a healthy state. Second, it helps you detect any signs or symptoms of problems or abnormalities. Third, grooming allows you to spend quality time with your pet which helps create a special bond between you and your dog. It is therefore important to establish a daily or weekly grooming ritual that both you and your dog can enjoy. If your dog refuses to be groomed, command him to sit and stay. In addition, grooming should always involve a reward for your dog.
Below are 3 simple steps to properly clean your dog's face:
1. Gently wash the skin around the eyes using a fresh piece of moistened cotton for each one. If you notice any discharge or inflammation, contact a vet for advice.
2. Hold open the ear with one hand and gently clean inside the flap with a small piece of moistened cotton. Use a fresh piece for each ear. Do not probe too deeply into the ear canal.
3. Loose facial skin must be cleaned regularly with damp cotton. This prevents dirt, dead skin, and bacteria from collecting in the folds and causing irritation and infection.
he “Retrieve” must be learned step by step. First, you should teach your dog to take a very light dumbbell and hold it. Even though a handler has never tried this with his dog he should be able to accomplish it in one lesson. If you are training a dog who refused to retrieve when some other method was used, and he has become stubborn or frightened, it might take two or three lessons. The length of time it takes will depend upon your skill in using your voice as you tighten his collar.
Teaching a dog to retrieve is one of persuasion, and your voice is your most important asset here. You must use your dog's name repeatedly before each command and do so in a most persuasive tone of voice. Your voice should be kept low, firm, and pleasant, and you should talk to the dog continually as you urge him to take the dumbbell. When your dog takes it, you should immediately sound very pleased and praise him happily and excitedly as you pet him.
Never raise your voice in anger or impatience; if the dog appears to be stubborn, never shove the dumbbell in your dog's mouth or against his gums, never jerk your dog's collar, and don't hit him over the head with the dumbbell. Be gentle but firm with him at all times.
Start your dog in a quiet corner and keep him on a leash for the first three steps. Place the dumbbell under, in front of, and close to, your dog's upper lip, and as you tell him to "Get it," put your third finger behind his canine tooth. This will open his mouth slightly and you can gently slide the dumbbell into his mouth. If you can't use your right hand to open his mouth, use the index finger of your left hand. Quickly tell your dog to "Hold it," as you stroke his nose on top, in one direction away from his nose, with your right hand, and you stroke him under the chin with your left hand. By stroking him this way you will keep the dumbbell in his mouth. You should be praising him as you do this. Keep the dumbbell in your dog's mouth for two or three seconds at first so he can get the feel of it.
Most dogs accept the dumbbell gracefully and hold it firmly the first time. This is especially true of puppies who will actually reach out to take it and hold it for you. However, some dogs will put up a struggle, and you will have to hold their jaws closed gently with both hands around their muzzles as you command them firmly, but quietly, to "Hold it." Generally speaking, the majority of dogs will hold the dumbbell if you are gentle with them and talk to them reassuringly. Be careful not to bang the dog's teeth with the dumbbell.
After placing the dumbbell in your dog's mouth two or three times to get his reaction to it, teach him to take it by himself. Slide your dogs medium link chain or heavy nylon choke collar up high on his neck, behind his ears and high under his chin, and hold it in your left hand. Your right hand will be holding the dumbbell. By pushing against the dead ring with your thumb you will be able to draw the collar into the palm of your hand very steadily and smoothly. Do not jerk the collar, just tighten it smoothly and quickly. When the dog takes the dumbbell you should let go of his collar immediately and praise him.
Begging food from the dinner table is one of the easiest things to teach a dog, and also one of the hardest habits to break. Your pet's training to beg begins when he is a young, adorable puppy. It does not take too many repetitions before he learns that he gets fed from the table by begging. Then he sits by your chair while you are eating and stares at you. Occasionally he'll get up on his hind legs and paw you, or he'll nudge your arm and remind you that he is waiting. And he drools, that's the worst part. He looks as though you never feed him.
If you don't have this problem, prevention is quite simple. Don't start giving your dog food from the table. If you must give your dog table scraps, give them in moderation and in his own dish after you have finished eating or, better yet, with his regular meal. Once you have a dog that begs, it becomes a self-perpetuating problem. Begging is rewarded with food.
Chances are, if you have this problem, you've tried to stop his begging, you've yelled at him when he begs, pushed him away, and even gotten really angry, but he just gets more persistent. So you've had to give him something to be able to eat in peace. What you have done is to reward his persistence. Each time you have tried holding out longer, but have ultimately given in, you have further trained him that no matter how far away the rainbow looks, there is a pot of gold at the end if he simply waits.
When you are tired of this behavior and want to end it, when you get to the point that you can't stand the drooling, the whining, the pawing and the sad eyes staring at you, then you have to steel yourself for the cure. Using the positive approach, give him the command "Down” and have him do a long “Down” by your chair during dinner. Be prepared for many interruptions initially, while you reinforce his “Down.” Each time he gets up, repeat the command and replace it if necessary so that he remains down during your dinner.
With a truly persistent begger, your first week of dinners may be quite a trial. Some dogs bark repeatedly and go through all manner of random actions to try to get you to feed them from the table. But once you have begun the training, stick with it. If you give in at any time, no matter how small the tidbit you sneak him, not only have you lost that battle, you may very well have lost the entire war. If you have made up your mind that you don't want begging, then it's just a matter of time before you have your dog resigned to the fact that the party is over, at least at the dinner table.
When your dog is steady enough to do the long “Down” away from your side during dinner, then establish his place where he stays while you eat. He should be put in his place every evening while you are eating, and praised when you release him at the end of the meal. It won't be too long before you will be eating dinner in the company of a well-trained, well- behaved dog lying quietly in the corner.
Your dog can't tell you when he is sick or let you know that something is hurting. So it's up to you to be able to tell when you dog is in need of medical attention.
Before going to the vet gather a list of symptoms or signs that something unusual is going on with your dog. Your vet will do the best he can to figure out the problem but any information you can provide is crucial.
It's always good to go for a full veterinarian examination regardless of whether your dog is sick or not.
Below are the areas your vet will will look into during the full examination:
1. Eyes - Many dogs will inherit eye diseases. Sudden changes in the eyes of your dog may indicate a more complicated disease elsewhere in his body. A thorough eye examination will help give the vet clues about where else he may need to look for problems.
2. Skin & Coat - By checking the coat and the skin of your dog, the vet can determine the possibility of other issues. For example, if the coat is dull in color, then this may be an indication of parasites or a minor infection that may exist anywhere else in the body.
3. Nose - Dogs typically have cold and wet noses. Your vet will be looking for any discharge and/or physical changes in the appearance of the nose. However, the vet will not be too concerned if your dog's nose is hot or dry.
4. Genitals - If your dog is female, then the vet will check the vulva for discharge or inflammation. Either of these two could represent a disorder of the urinary system or the reproductive system. Likewise, a male dog's testicles and penis are examined for possible inflammation and swelling.
5. Mouth - The mouth area is checked for gum inflammation and tooth decay. Examining the dog's mouth will also give the vet a chance to check his blood pressure. This is done by pressing his finger up against the gums. If your dog has pale gums, then it could be anemia. If there is a yellowish color on your then this is possibly a liver problem.
6. Nails - The vet will take a look at your dog's nails and also the nail bed for damage, if he shows signs of licking or lameness. Some dogs have uneven wear and tear on their nails which means that the dog has been favoring one leg and may have an injury. If the vet finds that the nails are flaky, then further steps can be taken for a possible metabolic disorder.
Nail trimming should be done starting from the time your Pit Bull is a puppy. You will need to get your Pit use to having it's feet touched. Start by carefully cutting just the tips of the Pit's nails every week. Make sure you don't cut the nerve endings as this will make him/her very nervous when the clippers come out.
Not only will you need to brush his coat on a regular basis he will also need to be bathed. If he seems scared of the bath tub you can trick into thinking this is a fun time by bringing treats into the tub with you.
Using cotton swabs is a no-no. Cotton swabs can irriate the skin and pack debris into the ear canal. Don't use powder in the ear which will cake together or use hydrogen peroxide which leaves the ear moist and ready for infection. If you see a build up of debris in the ear only use a cleaning product that is made for that purpose.
Pit Bulls generally don't have eye problems. However, just like all dogs they could suffer from eye problems that can rob them of their vision if left ignored. Examine your dog’s eyes and check for signs of abnormalities or discharge.
Try to brush your Pit Bull’s teeth once a week using a child toothbrush and dog toothpaste. If he won't let you brush his teeth your vet has cleansing solutions that helps kill plaque forming bacteria.
